Neat Hikes at Lake Powell, Utah

By Alan Silverstein, ajs@frii.com.
Last update: Dec 8, 2022

Note: I sold my share of the houseboat in November, 2010, so this webpage is nearly frozen as of that time. Except for rare occasions when I get back to Glen Canyon!

Introduction
Recommended Books
Some Terms Used
Our Invented Names For Some Unnamed Places
Hikes I Have Done
   Upstream of Bullfrog
   Downstream of Bullfrog
   Escalante River
   Downstream of Escalante River
   San Juan River
   Downstream of San Juan River
Hikes I Would Like To Do
Rock Spans Worth Listing
Tidbits About Gregory Natural Bridge

INTRODUCTION

This is a personal collection based on explorations from Bullfrog Marina, which is at about mile marker 95, north to the bridges and south as far as the bay below Friendship Cove, for one or two weeks a year starting in August 1989.

I welcome feedback, corrections, suggestions, and additions.

Sorry no more pictures here. But you can look under my Proposal for New Formal Names in Glen Canyon page for some images (not good quality).

Reader feedback suggested labeling each hike clearly with "main attractions" and "type of hike". I've tried to do that better, although still informally. Assume all hikes are off-trail unless otherwise noted! Sorry, you can't search, say, for "petroglyphs", except maybe by using your brower's search feature. I just don't have the time to turn this into a better-indexed guidebook.

The larger issue of Lake Powell being a paradise versus the lake "demolishing the canyon" is a fun discussion, but not the subject of this document. Suffice it to say that the vast majority of the red rock country in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is not underwater, and much of it is quite remote and fascinating to visit.

Note: In warm weather, bring lots of water and wet your shirt before you start hiking!

RECOMMENDED BOOKS

"Lake Powell Boating Charts", by the Browns, spiral bound, ~$15 at boat stores; very detailed, accurate, and usable. (I unbound it and put each page into a plastic looseleaf binder page to protect the maps. Uh oh, apparently the Browns's boating charts are out of print!) Also, 7.5 minute quadrangles available from the USGS (and at the Bullfrog visitor center too) are very useful. (Dang, now that's ancient history too, everything's gone digital.)

In my opinion, the popular Stan Jones fold-up map of the entire lake is barely usable for navigation, and unusable for hiking (sorry, Stan). There are probably other maps available nowadays too, but I have no experience with or opinion about them. I see that Lake Powell Magazine includes decent maps in every issue...

The elevations used in this document are taken from the Browns' boating charts except where shown differently on a 7.5 minute topo map.

Stan Jones' "Ramblings By Boat and Boot in Lake Powell Canyon Country", 1998, 276 pages; long, entertaining, and full of facts and figures. An excellent read for serious lake explorers.

The Wayne's Words website is another valuable Lake Powell reference.

SOME TERMS USED

Giving directions at Lake Powell is quite challenging. I've found it most useful to refer to canyon names and channel mile markers, water flow direction (even in dry gulches), and in some cases estimated distances from well-known landmarks.

downstream the direction water would flow if there was no lake, or if a dry streambed had water running in it

upstream opposite of downstream

river-left to the left when facing downstream (in any drainage, not necessarily a main river, could be a side-canyon)

river-right to the right when facing downstream

left finger to the left when facing upstream

left fork to the left when facing upstream

right finger to the right when facing upstream

right fork to the right when facing upstream

main channel of the Colorado River, Escalante, or San Juan; or more generally, the more-major drainage into which any stream or canyon empties

mile marker refers to original main channel mile numbers shown on maps or floating green or red buoys

full-pool where the water ends when the lake is full, at 3700' elevation; often but not always a good reference point even when the lake is way down

mi miles

GPS direct The direct distance ("as the crow flies") between two points, as indicated by a hand-held GPS unit, as one way to indicate distance. GPS waypoints datum (latitude/longitude coordinates) for locations given here is WGS-84 unless otherwise noted. I used dd.ddd format because that's simplest to cut/paste, say, into Google Maps or a GPS unit. Conversion to "dd hh mm" format is tedious, but for starters, this website can help.
Honorable mention: Lake Powell, Colorado (southeast shoreline): 40.25444,-105.65907.

980803 these are dates, expressed for brevity in the form: YYMMDD (year, month, day)

exit Occasionally used here in the usual sense, but worth mentioning in the odder sense, "Life is like a maze where we all go around and around trying not to find an exit". There are many "exits" in Glen Canyon, so keep your wits about you in steep terrain, and make a conscious note of dangerous "exits" (as opposed to benign "up and out" routes, as I often call them).

Note:

I used to have a lot more abbreviations that were all hyperlinks back to the table above, but I decided they were too terse and too much clutter, and expanded them so the text is easier to read.
It's been suggested that a "real guidebook" would be more generic and include less personal trivia, such as the date when I visited a place. Oh well, I guess this isn't a real guidebook! But it's debatable, I've read a lot of real guidebooks where I wished the author had been less formal and, in particular, given me some clue of the year, or time of year, where he/she visited a location. So I hope you don't mind.

OUR INVENTED NAMES FOR SOME UNNAMED PLACES

Many of these names were formally proposed to the USGS (US Geological Survey) BGN (Board on Geographic Names) via webpage in January 2004. Seven names were approved (marked "A" below) and 10 rejected ("R") on May 12, 2005.

Note: Geographic convention is to not use apostrophes in placenames.

Alans Alley Steep crack climb leading to hidden cliff (no exit), 0.4 mi up river-left from full-pool in unnamed finger river-right off San Juan downstream of Alcove Canyon, east of 4369' point. "Honorable mention" but not worth reclimbing.

Alans Petrified Forest Upstream arm of Rincon, river-left in arm (Rincon side), in cove near end at full-pool, in Chinle Formation (gray clay); also much wood in other Chinle across main channel from Rincon, and on Navajo land south of Piute Bay.

Bedroom Sand and debris slopes below cliffs with flat area high above, Fifty Mile Canyon, Escalante, river-right ~1 mi upstream in Fifty Mile Canyon, just below the narrows (exposed below ~3600').

Bell Tower Window A Awesome arch high above, in the top of a pinnacle, in "Twin Edens Canyon", invisible from the lake except perhaps at full-pool. (37.265361,-110.851222)

Boulder in the Sky R Next high point north of "Camera Butte" on Waterpocket Fold, 5200'+; scrambling access up gully from south side to a huge boulder perched on an airy ridge.

Camera Butte R Highest small mesa, 5102', south end of Waterpocket Fold above The Slope, 1400' above lake, top accessible from north end.

Chinle Cathedral R Impressive canyon in Chinle formation mudstone a short walk from full-pool in left fork of Popcorn Canyon.

Clock Rock Bizarre pinnacle at downstream end of Cha Bay, river-left, San Juan; survivor of massive landslide of narrow ridge. Major unnamed landmark. (The above name is not what we actually call it, but it's close, we don't want to offend the squeamish.)

Daves Lost Anchor Canyon Small canyon with a major fork, river-left off the main channel ~2 miles upstream of the Escalante mouth, named for the time Dave lost a small boat anchor in the left fork (and we found no trace of it a few years later when the lake was down).

Double Echo Canyon Small dry finger off river-right of "Not Annies Canyon" on hike up and out; shady alcove and nice echoes at rear, but nothing special as Lake Powell goes.

Dougs Cathedral Huge amphitheater with "altar" stone and awesome echoes, end of right main fork (third right finger) of Iceberg Canyon, ~0:10 hike/bushwhack in from full-pool; 900' below surrounding plateau, and only 2.7 mi direct from nearest water in San Juan!

Dougs Sound Cave Huge cave river-left in "Dougs Finger" near end; smaller cave (still huge) across (river-right) (37.328806,-110.903250).

Dougs Finger Escalante, two huge caves ~0.5 mi in near end, river-left 3.5 mi up from main channel just downstream of Davis Gulch, across Escalante; first told to me by Doug Baskins; with gorgeous hanging gardens at end.

Eureka Canyon Off main channel, a narrow canyon hidden just downstream around the corner river-left of the Escalante mouth; the next major canyon upstream of "Walking Rock Canyon".

Garys Rock Island just below water level at 3687', where Gary Karnik lost a prop and gashed his boat 9810, southwest end of Bullfrog Bay just NE of the shallow shoal between Halls and Bullfrog Bays.

Golden Arches R Double arch (formally known as Hi-Lo Arch in register but not on maps) just upstream of Cottonwood Canyon mouth, river-left (same side); hard to see from main channel, short but tricky slickrock hike from upstream of Register Rocks; no mooring, ski boat dropoff.

Heart Cave Heart-shaped double glen above (behind) "Moriahs Arch".

ICEFRF Iceberg Canyon first right finger, a convenient shorthand name for it, based on a GPS waypoint.

ICESRF Iceberg Canyon second right finger, a convenient shorthand name for it, based on a GPS waypoint (37.276500 -110.691028). ICESRF has two smaller side-forks, ICESRL and ICESRR.

ICESRL Iceberg Canyon second right finger, left fork, a convenient shorthand name for it, based on a GPS waypoint.

ICESRR Iceberg Canyon second right finger, right fork, a convenient shorthand name for it, based on a GPS waypoint.

Island Cave Huge cave on river-right in Willow Creek Canyon (Escalante) ~0.5 mi upstream from the Bishops Creek fork, with an unusual hill of detritus inside; at full-pool the water goes all the way around the island through the back of the cave. A smaller but still impressive cave is on river-left a short distance upstream (in sight).

Lost Sail Cove San Juan, next big canyon upstream Piute Canyon, south side (river-left), where Bob Jenk lost a sailboard sail ("I thought they floated!")

Middle Rib Canyon Unnamed canyon between "Walking Rock Canyon" and "Twin Edens Canyon", with a center rib (slickrock slope) that gives access up and out to the terrain above.

Moriahs Arch R (37.292417,-110.864806) A wall arch, top level with flats behind, separated by a narrow crack, similar to the Eye Arch but smaller; below full-pool (top ~3657'), main channel river-right ~0.5 mi upstream of the mouth of the Escalante. A short walk (0:06) from a sandy beach campsite (usually taken) further downstream.

Monotithe Long north-south slickrock-sided mesa southeast of Bullfrog Marina, west of Stanton Canyon; name based on view from due south. Side view visible from high points miles away; a major landmark. (The above name is not what we actually call it, but it's close, we don't want to offend the squeamish.)

Not Annies Canyon R River-right northwest of mile marker 80; downstream from Annies Canyon on the same side, but it's "not Annies". Surprise, it's hikable out of back up Waterpocket Fold, past "Double Echo Canyon".

Not Cha Canyon R Major unnamed cove river-left between Cha and Nasja Canyons in San Juan. Mike Berry thought it was Cha once and we hiked up and out to nearby Navajo cliffs, but it was "not Cha".

Popcorn Beach (37.674722,-110.458778) At back (east) end of Popcorn Canyon, slightly up the right fork, from full-pool down, a small area of popcorn-like concretions in red Chinle mudstone, most containing white calcite that fluoresces brightly, some hollow.

Popcorn Canyon A East-west canyon off Good Hope Bay, across from Ticaboo Canyon, named for Popcorn Beach.

Sallys Cove Nice slickrock site across from Lost Eden Canyon, main channel river-left downstream, just around the corner from Halls Marina (marina is 37.465722,-110.715583).

Sallys Pocket Beach and boulders at rockfall ("natural dam" on some maps) a short way upstream, second right finger of Iceberg Canyon; rockfall and beach mostly under water at full-pool.

Sandy Beach Main channel, cove river-right of mile marker 59 ~1 mi upstream of the San Juan mouth, with a long, steep slickrock hike up to overlook cliffs; starts upstream of beach. Years ago this big beach was "sandy", hence the name, but it's gotten pretty overgrown.

The Slope A Impressive base of Waterpocket Fold across from Iceberg Canyon, river-right, mile marker 78; mind-blowing scale and smoothness; 1500' total rise; calcite crystals abound.

Twin Edens Canyon R Short cliff-walled canyon near mile marker 66B, main channel river-left next upstream from Ribbon Canyon, and second downstream from "Walking Rock Canyon".

Walking Rock Canyon R River-left ~1 mi downstream from mile marker 68. Contained an amazing "walking rock" high on a shelf below a cliff (37.277111,-110.850278).

In addition, the BGN accepted these proposed names: Cha Bay, Piute Bay, Flying Eagle Cove, Twilight Arch. The BGN rejected "Peekaboo Arches".

HIKES I HAVE DONE

In each section hikes are listed more or less north-to-south (upstream to downstream).

Those hikes of special interest to first-time visitors are marked "!", but that doesn't mean they're easy or convenient; use your judgement.

UPSTREAM OF BULLFROG

Dirty Devil River bridge: 37.915917,-110.388167 (north of Hite)
Narrow Canyon bridge: 37.891000,-110.369972 (northeast of Hite)
Hite Marina: 37.865639,-110.397333 (just south of boat ramp)

Uranium mine and Chinle formation above main channel, river-right, ~1 mi upstream of Trachyte Canyon; watch for an old road along shore; some petrified wood and carnotite? (Yellow-saturated sandstone.) (Scrambling on boulders.)
Farley Canyon traversal to White Canyon (eh). Follow a road around from the end of one canyon to the end of the other. Impressive acreage covered by wind-blown driftwood in White Canyon.
Trachyte Canyon: First right finger, back to end of deep V, across large logjam below full-pool mark, then up through Chinle formation and huge boulders (easy scrambling and huge boulder caves) through cliff wall, to wide, flat upper valley floor. Upper valley very tempting, with cairns, to probable high point 1-2 mi distant overlooking Hite; but I was short on time to explore further.
Good Hope Bay: Castle Butte south side north from bay; high, steep, can't reach 4527' top. (Steep scrambling, increasingly exposed.)
0809: Found a relatively easy route up the southwest face (look for ridges and then a brown bouldery slope) to a huge vertical crack between summit boulders. Counter-clockwise from here a few hundred feet, down a little and back up, scrambled to the summit ridge perhaps 50' below the high point! Awesome views.
Ticaboo Canyon off Good Hope Bay: Relatively easy and pretty walk up a wide canyon with steep walls, water, and cottonwoods. Only had time to go 0.5 mi GPS direct, a bit past the first left fork above full-pool. Also climbed up slickrock to cliff wall on river-left at about full-pool to look out to south.
Later, climbed steep loose recent rockfall downstream from steep-walled cove river-left near mouth to bouldery top of pinnacle standing out from main (impassable) cliff wall and whitish slump zones; neat summit, through crack and around to top, great view.
0809: Went about 3 miles up the main left fork of Ticaboo in 2.5 hours one way; a long, relatively easy, pleasant outing with frequent nice views north to the southern Henry Mountain peaks. Near the end of the hike, caught an easier trail up on the "bottom" (flats) to the right (river left) for a long ways.
Good Hope Bay: "Chinle Cathedral", petrified wood, slot canyons, and mudstone tunnel, all ~30 min one way from full-pool, in left fork of Popcorn Canyon, between 4378' and 4670' high points; no exit (cliffs) at back? (Both gullies end in cliffs.) (Easy walking past Cathedral, then rough scrambling on boulders.)
Good Hope Bay: Popcorn Canyon, right fork, interesting hiking, petrified wood, and springs/pools above (river-right of) right fork; also hiked up to base of cliffs on south side of this finger near mouth (latter includes some scrambling).
Good Hope Bay: Unexpected and wonderful up-and-out climb/hike from a steep talus slope on north side of southeast bay (strictly speaking, unnamed next bay south of what most maps call "Good Hope"), ~0.5 mi east of main channel. Scramble up from ~37.66062, -110.47995 on slope between cliffs to left fork at top, then up rectangular gully a bit to narrow slot (defile) leading up to the right near the top of the gully. Follow through to a second defile to access upper regions below main plateau. Note/mark your return point well here! Continue north up through last complex cliff wall, many choices, to main plateau. Sand-slog ~2 mi north to high point (4670') and overlook Popcorn Canyon, "Chinle Cathedral", and surrounding canyons. Several large cairns found along this route during a fast 3-hour round trip one evening (000926). (Steep scrambling, route-finding.)
Near Seven Mile Canyon, cove northeast, main channel river-left just downstream mile marker 114, to 4294' high point south-southeast from cove; challenging.
Warm Springs Canyon: Cool slickrock area, main channel river-right just upstream of Warm Springs. Various coves and gullies; the most-upstream one offers relatively easy access to the steep slickrock walk to the pink Entrada layer, then the very top of the Ticaboo Mesa above that. From there it was over a mile but not hard (just hot) to walk down to look into Warm Springs. Invisible from the lake is a deep, unreachable slot canyon above the pouroff; had to walk downstream a little to see over into the canyon. (Absolutely no shade in this area mid-day, even in September.)
(!) Tapestry Wall, 4312' high point (37.600972,-110.606417) above cliff, ~1 hour one way, 650' up slickrock from downstream end of wall, small cove off main channel river-right; several huge pools (dry) in gully directly up from starting point. Ruins of survey tripod on top; excellent views down to lake and north to Henry Mountains. (Done three times). (Steep slickrock, otherwise cross-terrain walking.)
0511: It appears impossible to access this hike when the lake is down more than about 50'! Or at least you must start much further downstream.
0809: Yup, we found the next main cove downstream, barely moorable at around 3628', 1.5 mi GPS direct from the top. Cairns led across the slickrock northerly to a route through the cliffy pink Entrada layers to the top of the Ticaboo Mesa 0.6 mi south of the high point. Watch/cairn/GPS well to find the down-point easily on your return.
(!) Smith Fork slot canyon: A relatively easy walk 30-40 min when the lake is 3628', from the very end of the water. Along the way look right for a short, steep-walled, sandy-floored side canyon ending in a nice grotto and pool. The main slots are perhaps 1/2 mi further upstream, after the trail winds through a bushwhack (or look for another trail to the right up the hill). The canyon narrows, and there you are. The slots go on for a long way, varying between a sandy and bouldery floor.
(!) Smith Fork mouth exit: At the downstream side of the mouth of Smith Fork there's a huge sandstone "ramp" (ridge) that leads up-and-out, but requires boat drop-off and pick-up or else (as we did) mooring nearby and kayaking over. Exposure is not bad although there are a couple of mildly steep sections. This ramp gives access to a "bouncy" stroll downstream along the top of the cliff, past a giant balanced boulder, to look north down to a huge cove and back to the starting point. Also just uphill a bit farther is a promontory of the Ticaboo Mesa, 4042' (a little lower here than a few miles north at the Tapestry Wall). This is above a pink layer of Entrada sandstone; easiest to access on the right (north) end of the layer. (Repeated 1608, just 1 hour round-trip.)
(!) Forgotten Canyon, Defiance House ruins, just near/past end at full-pool, river-right; short from full-pool. (Done four times). (Easy although steep up trail from full-pool.)
Hansen Creek Canyon, various strolls northeast from north (river-left) side. (Easy hill walking.)
Crystal Springs Canyon, up ridge from amphitheater near very end, river-left; can't get out of canyon (cliffs above). (Steep slickrock.)
0907: Revisited, can't even find the ridge we climbed!
(!) Moki Canyon (mouth: 37.483472,-110.641722), sand dunes and ruins, right finger near end, river-left; ascend dune through cliffs to "flats" and view of road (Utah 276) above (37.463444,-110.577750), and the Cal Black airport (37.44265,-110.56185) in the distance. (Done twice.) (Steep sand, then a little scrambling and steep shelves.)
Also ruins (three granaries?) ~45 min upstream from full-pool on river-right. Also ruins and pretty cove and garden a bit up left finger (North Gulch). (Canyon mouth: 37.483889,-110.641056)
0007: Dave Boyd said: "We also stayed one night in the right finger... I tried hiking there, which required a boat dropoff. After a quarter mile or so of tough going through soft sand, aquatic grasses, scrub oak, and grapevines, I gave up. I'd call that area 'not hikable.'"
1608: Kayaked up to the end at 3617', just west of the main fork, and hiked 23 minutes quickly up to get in sight of the massive sand dune. It was mostly easy walking on sand or somewhat slippery mud, and later some pretty purple Kayenta base rock. It appears that years of low lake levels flushed most of the silt and vegetation.
Moki Canyon, slickrock near mouth, up and out to overlook points, relatively short but steep, starting from mooring point river-right just a couple of hundred yards upstream of the mouth and marker.
(!) Unnamed canyon river-right downstream of Moki at about mile marker 96: Easy hike 0.98 GPS direct east in about 0:45 from 3601' up to 4031' high point, a flat-topped remnant mesa on a huge "penninsula" (lake visible on three sides). View southeast straight up Moki Canyon mouth, southwest to Halls Crossing and Navajo Mountain, north to Henry Mountains. (Steep and some scrambling through initial slickrock cliffs, then easier cross-country walking.)
Just east of this highest point is a prominent "cone-shaped hill" (4002') with an even more spectacular view (even though it's a bit lower) of the lake wrapping around nearly 330 degrees of panorama. It's < 30 min from the lake (at 3647') from mooring in a cove south of the cone, 0.9 - 1.0 mi direct from the Moki Canyon marker.
Bullfrog area: "Monotithe" ridge southeast of Bullfrog, ~4100'; fun, scenic; between Bullfrog Bay and Stanton Canyon; attain summit through cliffs from northwest side or from north ridge (from Stanton Canyon road, above caves); thick river cobble caprock. (Done twice).
0109: Moored west of north end of "Monotithe" in muddy cove; it looked close, but it wasn't! We just got to the base in 0:15; too steep to climb northwest side, and too far to the north ridge before sunset.
"Hobie Cat Bay" houseboat launch area: 37.509194,-110.728444.
Bullfrog area: Nice slickrock walking, say, up for sunset, ~1 mile north of the marina area.
Bullfrog Bay west side: Various nice slickrock hikes on pink Entrada sandstone, both north and south sides of Smith Pass between Bullfrog and Halls Creek Bays. South side might have no good mooring (I pulled a kayak up on slickrock), but excellent views, especially near sunset, from northernmost cobble-topped point south of the pass (37.50821,-110.75518).
"Bullfrog South" campground: 37.572194,-110.756528 (closed when lake is down).

Bullfrog Marina boat ramp (top): 37.516333,-110.729472.
Halls Crossing boat ramp (at low water): 37.46787,-110.71693.

DOWNSTREAM OF BULLFROG

(!) Halls Creek Bay Bridge: 37.49322,-110.80833, west side of the bay; see also Natural Arches in GCNRA. A very nice, small, solid, mature bridge you can view from the bowl below, cross over from either direction, or get behind (upstream) and below. Too bad about the dozens of graffiti scratchings under the south buttress going back to 1976.
GPS helped us find this bridge, especially since we moored 1.8 miles southeast (the bay was crowded) and hiked "across the grain" of the gullies to reach it. The main drainage below the bridge ends in a long finger of water at the lake, the closest point, but if you hike up this gully, there's a dryfall (with a big cottonwood tree below it); you must exit to the right and get out below that point.
Halls Bay to top of Waterpocket Fold (at 37.46009,-110.82560 and ~5280'), 3.55 direct miles from the nearest hikeable starting point (at 3617'). This was a monster, epic hike in 95 degree heat, nearly 12 hours and about 10.5 miles round trip, starting by searching for the Halls Creek Bay south bridge, then continuing west and up until deep ravines made progress impossible, then north and northwest up a prominent valley and higher slopes west to attain the crest. Awesome views easterly, not so much in any other direction. Upper reaches of slickrock full of hidden cliffs.
(!) Halls Bay: Mesa on island (at full-pool), 3825' high point, between Halls and Bullfrog Bays, southwest end of Bullfrog Bay just upstream of shortcut/island (at 3687'+), northwest of "Garys Rock"; hike west and north from southeast of high point; fun, short hike up slickrock gully to lots of river cobble and nice views of area.
Halls Bay: Island (at full-pool), south end between Halls and Bullfrog Bays, southwest end of Bullfrog Bay, southwest end of Bullfrog Bay, southwest of "Garys Rock"; nice short walk on sand and gravel around top of large, relatively flat island. (A little steep at times to the top, but lots of route choices.)
(!) "Sallys Cove": 3967' high point above cliffs east of cove, river-left at mile marker 92A; excellent surreal night view of marinas by full moon.
(!) Lost Eden Canyon, short slot canyon in the leftmost fork, best around 3640' lake elevation; need small boat to start the brief exploration.
Miner's steps (37.40821,-110.72935): Downstream of Lake Canyon, main channel river-right around the corner just before cliff wall starts, covered at full-pool, easiest to spot even or downstream of them. They go up over the top, didn't explore very far. (Can be hard to get off/on boat depending on water level, otherwise easy walking.)
Downstream Lake Canyon: 4152' high point east-southeast of unnamed cove river-left at mile marker 86A around left turn downstream from Lake Canyon stretch, upstream from Annies Canyon; short hike up, nice views; many pools of water after recent rains. (Slickrock walk.)
Dinosaur tracks across from Annies Canyon: Little or no hiking involved, depending on water level; underwater at times. Look for small, like 2" across (therapod?), three-toed tracks on flat white limestone (sandwiched between red sandstone layers) on the downstream side edge of a flat area across from the canyon, the one with a blobby central pillar.
I thought the tracks were only in a few rocks all within maybe 10', but later we found some larger ones (sauropod?) nearby, and several hundred feet away too, in the same layer.
Arches across from Annies Canyon: Two of three small spans are barely visible from the lake at the best viewing and sun angles. (Thanks to David Herberg for finding and sharing them.) Can hike all three in < 2 mi, 2-3 hours, starting from ski boat mooring around 37.3832,-110.7290 (~0.45 miles SE of the abovementioned dinosaur tracks). North to south, as nicknamed for discoverers: "Elisas Arch" (37.38933,-110.73244, big pothole with small rear crack opening), "Michelles Arch" (37.38552,-110.73082, small boulder span on cliff edge), "Davids Arch" (37.38589,-110.72453, overhead opening reminiscent of the Eye Arch).
Annies Canyon: As described elsewhere, you can hike up/down the second left finger of Annies, at least when the lake is 3600' or higher.
Dunno where the main (middle) drainage eventually leads, but "up a ways" there's a gully up to the left with a trail that goes over a high point and down into the next drainage. From this "four-way intersection", probably formed by a fault line crossing the drainages, you can go down the drainage about 1/2 mile to a wide slot canyon, narrowing slickrock with pools, and eventually the upper side of impassable(?) slots.
Up the drainage leads all the (long) way to the crest of the Waterpocket Fold north of the "Boulder in the Sky". Straight across might lead to "Not Annies Canyon".
A difficult scramble out from the middle finger above the four way junction are remains of an old jeep road! (37.37249,-110.77089)
(!) Elephant Arch (37.377528,-110.732889), river-right, main channel downstream Annies Canyon a short distance; doable from a bit downstream around corner up flooded gully, with skiboat dropoff, at least at 3687'+; very brief hike up slickrock gully (~0:15). Can get both above and below arch, latter a bit exposed to reach (friction around corner), but a gorgeous view from there. Looks like elephant's head from downstream looking upstream. Look for cairn ("pimple") on elephant's head. (Steep slickrock at points, some up/down, routefinding, mild exposure if you go below the arch.)
021128: Can also reach it, a much longer hike, from further downstream, crossing the top of a flooded gully.
"Alice J Cove": Up narrow gully to upper "flats" from left rear of small finger with nice "Alice J Arch" (covered at full-pool, named by Stan Jones for his wife, who "discovered" it), main channel river-left at mile marker 83 (between Annies and Slick Rock Canyons). About 0:30 brisk climb and bushwhack (miserable in some ways, only for masochists) out of the gully (from full-pool), and later went another 40 minutes northeast to an isolated 4461' high point with an excellent view and a 1959 USGS survey marker west of the summit. (Steep scrambling, some exposure, in the gully; route-finding up above on the return.)
090714: Scrambled up again, this time west to overlook the lake and the arch -- a very pretty view.
170929: Another visit, surprised how long and tough it was, but then I'm getting older (grin).
Across from "Alice J" to overlook Annies Canyon: "Alice J Arch" apparently sits in a cove formed by a fault that continues across the lake, visible as a deep V on river right. From the back of this cove at 3629', was possible to scramble up to slickrock, exit higher at exactly one steep passage (a bit of pucker factor on descent), and reach the main-channel/Annies saddle in under half an hour. However, had to continue another 15 minutes north, down and back up, to a narrow slickrock fin with an overlook to the main junction in Annies. Might be possible to continue down/up to Annies itself, not sure.
(!) Slick Rock Canyon, unnamed Anasazi ruins, roof still included, just southwest of 4310' point; not the fenced ruins, but further upstream high above river-right just at end at full-pool; 0:15 one way from full-pool; last 20' to ruins requires steep slickrock scrambling (done many times).
021128: These ruins are now fenced off, and a new interpretive sign names this the Mistake Alcove for no given reason. (But web searching implies the name was given by a researcher around the 1960s.)
170925: Nothing has changed. Difficult hike/bushwhack from 3629' on the south side of the canyon, but found a much better trail on the north side going out.
(!) Slick Rock Canyon, ~2 mi (1 hr+) east from full-pool up main canyon past two south side branches to lovely pool and ~150' waterfall at end, via decent trail on north side; some scrambling and bushwhacking near end. Intense fire 980623 burned from full-pool through most of canyon, leaving stark beauty in 9807 -- black skeletons of cottonwoods, huge holes from burned out cottonwood stumps, "ghost tree" ash piles, etc.
Peninsula across from Slick Rock Canyon is an interesting place to tour around for a while if you happen to be moored there, and the water is low enough to connect the "islands". Nice views from both ends of the peninsula (towards Slick Rock, and high below cliffs away from it). Also a record density of prop and keg strike marks on the high domes at the west end, "fossil propasaurus" evidence.
"Not Annies Canyon" up-and-out at rear onto Waterpocket Fold; "thread the needle" through cliffs starting river-right in cove near rear; pass "Double Echo Canyon" enroute. (Done twice). (Easy hiking with a short bit of scrambling.)
Unnamed canyon upstream from The Slope, same side: A small finger with high walls, upstream of the canyon upstream of the 4172' high point (below). Impassible dryfall a short distance from the lake (at 3640'), which is reached by the lake at full pool, but an interesting stroll if moored in this canyon.
(!) The Slope bump/knob ("Gertrude"): 4172' high point on remnant Navajo sandstone tower at base of Waterpocket Fold across from New Spall, somewhat upstream of Iceberg Canyon. Challenging scramble from rear (away from lake) -- steep, loose, exposed. Easier route up the east side from the south; 30 minutes from lake at 3636'. Look for a narrow gully, last west before cliffs, up from the south "across" the face of the knob (about five zigzags) to get access to higher terrain (below a series of shallow caves). Superb views from the several summits.
(!) Waterpocket Fold (the "The Slope Hike"); long, 1400' gain (or more; start from coves in bottom of The Slope; across from Iceberg Canyon, or from back of finger just upstream of 4172' point at base of The Slope; access to "Camera Butte", 5102' (topo map, not on boating chart) from north side (easy) and "Boulder in the Sky", 5200'+ (37.345500,-110.791639), from south side (tough); slept on top of "Camera Butte" once. Also worth going south to overlook enormous cliff (37.334833,-110.796028) and great view of Rincon. (Done many times.) (Basically steep uphill walking with some route-finding, many routes. Can walk around the west side of "Camera Butte" too.)
0108: Started from northeast of 4172' high point, just at the "edge" of the The Slope; one hour across red gullies including a natural bridge to a big broken-rock gully halfway up the The Slope at north end, and up through this and over and back down somewhat and then up again, through Navajo sandstone terrain, and visited 5300' (?) high point (37.356722,-110.794778) 0.8 mi GPS direct north of "Boulder in the Sky" for the second time. Incredible view from Bullfrog Bay to Rincon and beyond to San Juan and Navajo Mountain; down in 1:30 around "Boulder in the Sky". (More scrambling and slickrock route-finding on this trip.)
070811: A quick (1:35), casual jaunt up to the "Boulder in the Sky" got interesting when we decided to try connecting to "Not Annies Canyon" on the descent -- without a map! Half an hour off the Boulder and around to the west and north, we were on the crest of the Waterpocket Fold again. We followed the "obvious" main drainage down east as it curved gently north. Unfortunately, this route led through a lot more lovely scenery than expected to a narrowing canyon, deep pools, and then an impassible slot, which is the leftmost finger of Annies Canyon! We had to backtrack about half a mile to a "four-way intersection", where we found a well-beaten trail up (north), over, and down into another valley, eventually leading to the second-left finger of Annies, about 1:25 more hiking back from the slots. Later viewing the map, I see you could probably save a couple of miles and reach "Not Annies" more directly if you just know where to turn.
(!) Iceberg Canyon: "Dougs Cathedral", 0:10 hike/bushwhack at 3687'+; at end of right fork (beyond several right fingers), southeast of 4621' point; relatively flat, brushy hike in to an incredible amphitheater, ~900' below surrounding plateau. (Done many times.) Can also view it from high above either flank by climbing up steep walls (37.284194,-110.733333 1127 meters for Heavens Above).
031128: Took over an hour one way from end of lake near fork, at lake level 3601', about 1.0 mi GPS direct.
040518: Lake at 3585', 1.1 mi GPS direct.
Iceberg Canyon left fork (at the back, not the first two left fingers): Notably tough bushwhack to a nice but unspectacular end (by GCNRA standards). (Did not explore left fork of the left finger.) Nice shade on south side at about high water mark, then the fun starts: Knee-deep gullies, frequent puddles (in a wet year), and pushing through rushes/willows well over your head like a tunnel. At the end, a small pretty pool, steep slick walls, high pour-off above, but nothing like Dougs Cathedral up the right fork, or the incredible amphitheater and sheer 700' drop at the end of the second right finger main fork. There are places just as lovely and much easier to reach than the end of the left fork. Also there was a lot of poison ivy in the homestretch.
(!) ICESRF: Iceberg second right finger, 0.77 miles GPS direct, ~0:45 one way from brushy end at full-pool up and down on decent braided trails to huge sandy flat, gardens, and pool; probably the biggest amphitheater at the lake, bigger than even "Dougs Cathedral", with a comparable 600-700' drop from the rim. You can also overlook this spot. Awesome cave on river-left along the way, not very big by Powell standards, but the greatest depth-to-height ratio I've seen at the lake. (Obstacle to getting here: Below full-pool, natural dam forms a lake up the finger, you'd have to drag a kayak over or something. Do it at full-pool, or else much lower, when it's a much longer hike.)
Iceberg Canyon mouth: Nice, relatively short hike on the south end of the geologic continuation of the The Slope, river-left in Iceberg near the mouth, in sight of the marker. Where the slope meets the lake below cliffs, walk up downstream (relative to Iceberg) to overlook the main channel and continue around for a view of Aleson Arch across Flying Eagle Cove. (Easy uphill walking, many routes.)
Aleson Arch (previously called "Flying Eagle Arch", also called "Kissing Elephants", but the arch was formally named in October 1988 for the river guide, Harry Aleson, who carried the discoverer down the river), southeast of 4541' high point, direct or loop from Rincon upstream arm or from Flying Eagle Cove; at least 1 hour each way. Visible from lake if you know where to look, on Navajo bump downstream of Iceberg Canyon and Flying Eagle Cove, upstream of Rincon upstream arm; study map. Access from Flying Eagle Cove up to right of arch through cliffs (neat boulder caves here) and then left on top. (Done several times, met David Muench and his daughter here once!)
Note, getting directly behind the arch requires scrambling ~10' up a wall boulder, and frictioning ~25' down the back side.
If time permits, also hike 1/3 mile further NNW up from the arch to a fine overlook point on the southeast "corner" of the Rincon (37.31487,-110.77942).
Can also hike from sand dune in Rincon upstream arm back through Kayenta/Wingate cliffs and around. Excellent views but non-trivial hiking. (Steep, exposed exit from Flying Eagle Cove unless you take the "ramp" left to below the cliff, then right, or tricky route-finding up apparently impassible but actually easy cliffs from Rincon side, see below.)
Rincon: Up steep terrain out of Rincon, east side (river-right) of upstream arm, from top of huge sand dune (yes you can get through the Kayenta/Wingate cliffs from there) to overlook Iceberg Canyon first right finger (37.312639,-110.757611) and reach 4288' point (tricky route, challenging, but < 2 hours one way). This is also one route (a longer way) to Aleson Arch. (Done at least twice). (High water mark in the upstream arm is 37.303333,-110.779694.)
Rincon: Around the Rincon, either direction, along the floor of the old oxbow; long and sandy. River used to flow around it, but now the high point is at the back due to erosion. (Easy, mostly flat walking except for sandy sections.)
Rincon: Up jeep road out of the Rincon bowl (nice views); pick up the road at rear of upstream arm and follow up and out southeast side near rear of oxbow; can get to Aleson Arch or Iceberg Canyon this way, but it's quite long. (Easy hiking up the road until you depart it (37.283694,-110.770444), then up and down slickrock and sand desert with route-finding difficult at times.)
990927: We did the "Iceberg Canyon Grand Tour", at least the first half; ~15 miles, 14 hours, overlooking the canyon at four points (with some steep slickrock ups and downs in between them):
1. ICESRF, the single most spectacular viewpoint at the lake, where you can peer over an overhang (at the pouroff) straight down ~600'; rocks take 7.5 seconds to fall from the pouroff, and can be watched the whole way. About 3 hours one way from the trailhead in the Rincon, up the road. GPS and/or map highly recommended, it's not obvious where to head after you turn left off the road near a local high point.
2. ICESRL (37.285250,-110.740139), not as impressive an overlook; the pouroff itself is inaccessible in a narrow slot, and the canyon below appears too choked to hike.
3. "Dougs Cathedral"; you can't see the cathedral itself from the pouroff, but must continue east around the rim to either a precarious, close viewpoint, or 10-15 minutes further to a straight-up-the-valley viewpoint from across the canyon; a total of ~2 hours one way beyond ICESRF, and requires at least a 14 mile total round trip hike. This point is tough to reach from anywhere; see also about hiking from the San Juan area.
4. ICESRR (37.291722,-110.752361), ~1.5 hours back around northwest from ICESRF; many very deep potholes in the drainage before the pouroff, and a nice pool right near the edge. Gorgeous view down, but curiously the main pouroff is not at the very back of the canyon, illustrating that these canyons are formed more by seepage erosion than waterfalls.
We did not continue from ICESRR to ICEFRF that day.
020916: Completed the Iceberg Canyon Grand Tour Part 2 in 10:45, up the Rincon road, to ICESRF, then to ICESRR, then north over the 4687' high point and down to ICEFRF; then to the cliff looking north to Aleson Arch, up south and west over the slickrock to overlook the Rincon again, and north and east to Aleson Arch; finally down to Flying Eagle Cove for ski boat pickup. (Difficult downclimb in dryfalls at low water; the rest was mostly not too difficult, just long.)
Rincon: Up the Rincon center island, 4880'+; wild climb, near technical at top, 3 hours for 1000'. (37.306111,-110.794472.) Ascend gully through cliffs on northeast side of island; watch for cairns through top of Kayenta/Wingate layer; then around either direction to high saddle in Navajo sandstone south of highest point (between two highest knobs); up and down ("thread the needle") north to the summit. There's just one way to get there, with ~6 short semi-technical sections... (Done twice, both times in summer!)
Rincon: Around the summit "plateau" of the Rincon, in either direction, rather than to the top. Surprisingly rough and complex terrain on the east side, hard to follow the very edge unless you have all day; easier on the west side, so going clockwise (east side first) is probably best. The far south point is 1.25 mi GPS (37.28883,-110.79697) from the NE side after you get onto the flats. Excellent views in all directions as you go around.
Rincon: Up steep terrain out of Rincon, west side, via huge sand dune (top ~37.30783, -110.80854), 1:10 to high point. Rugged climb, but cairns from top of north-most dune to upper shelf; easier but still rugged 0:15 further south from other dune top. Thence north to gully at northeast end of cliff, up to pillars and incredible view (~37.31404, -110.81111). No exit to higher terrain found in this area, just two dead ends, but gully bottom is boulder-choked and interesting.
Near Rincon: Petrified wood in Chinle Formation, various points river-right north and northwest of Rincon below cliffs, at or high above waterline, also at "Alans Petrified Forest". Interesting hiking up toward cliffs below The Slope; weird badlands terrain, tunnels, undercuts. Caution, poor traction on mudstone!
(!) Bowns Canyon: Well-constructed trail(!) starts at full-pool, river-left, cove at bend in Bowns in sight of fork with Long Canyon; leads in just 0:20 past unusual archaeological ruins warning marker (but no sites spotted) to very pretty flats (37.355889,-110.863000) and amphitheaters on purple top of Kayenta below Navajo cliffs. Can hike back left to overlook cliff or climb to "balcony" below higher cliffs for sunset view; hike further left around corner to springs and view far up Bowns; or hike right and climb up, out of amphitheater to neat walk along base of Navajo cliffs to far end; drop down and continue around corner for view up Long Canyon; could continue on shelf between rock layers, but not clear how far. At water line, can get out of Bowns, but both fingers of Long Canyon end at dry falls not far from full-pool.
991001: Hiked ~2 mi up Bowns past major right fork; very pretty with unusual perennial creek, springs, side grottos, etc. and reasonably easy hiking. Climbed high to the top of a steep talus field on river-right ~0.5 mi upstream the major right fork before returning. Several possible exit points.
000619: "Bowns to Explorer Canyon Grand Tour": Hiked ~3 mi up Bowns past previous limit; much drier than last fall, but still some welcome pools; no easy exit found until a large amphitheater, river-right ~1 mi beyond previous, with old stock gate at the top (37.379972,-110.889278). Easy exit! And easy ~1.2 mi further up across crest and then down to overlook Explorer Canyon (from 37.380778,-110.910944) and Zane Grey Arch, total 4.5 hours one way from start, 8.0 hours round trip.
020720: Hiked ~1 mi up Long Canyon (one fast hour from trailhead in Bowns) following a pretty good track (possibly ancient) around above the cliffs, to above amphitheater at end of Long above full-pool. Gorgeous view and the canyons kept going.
Later that day, walked up Long Canyon from full-pool (3638') 10-15 minutes on sand to pretty amphitheater, pool, and huge "altar stone" at end (left fork). Surrounding cliffs appear ultimately impassable although seductive at complicated points.
031130: Walked up to end again, this time 0:50 from 3601'.
060721: Fast 1:45 one-way from Bowns mooring around the corner and further up Long Canyon, past right fork, following deer trails on steep hillsides, to an arch-like depression on the wall on river-right. Canyon continues up out of sight; could descend to the floor here for more direct, longer hike in cooler weather. One hour back to the overlook at the Long/Bowns junction.
Downstream Rincon: Up-and-out through cliffs to high points on huge peninsula, rarely visited, northwest of Rincon from deepest of ~8 coves, just upstream of mile marker 72 (downstream of mile marker 72A), river-left; topo map shows creek into this cove (canyon). Area possibly inaccessible any other way due to cliffs; ~1 hour one way northeast to overlook cliffs above 3 mi stretch of river west of Rincon. Difficult traversal east from there but possible, by going lower (southeast), to higher points (reached 4620'); complex terrain, hard to interpret; cliffs block access to river east of starting point. (Complicated slickrock, steep at times.)
(!) Upstream Escalante: "Daves Lost Anchor Canyon", main channel river-left ~2 mi, hidden side canyon; left fork, relatively short but hard bouldery/bushwhacky climb from end up to beautiful springs and small creek.
Upstream Escalante: Main channel river-left ~1 mi, small cove (at 3607'), hike/scramble up and out above full-pool mark, toward cliffs, and toward a small "Eden" without a pool. To the right just before this spring, uphill to a narrow cleft partially hidden by bushes is an almost-cave eroded from a deep crack between boulders. Also above this point is an almost-too-steep scramble up slickrock and then zig-zag on neat ledges to eye level with a very high cove with what appears to be broken down ruins but probably isn't. No "exit" up and out seen here, although possibly continuing down and upstream you might eventually get fully out. (Steep, bushy, scrambling, but great view down-canyon.)
(!) "Moriahs Arch" is a short walk from a nearby nice mooring site, if not underwater. Attempted to find a way up-and-out through the slickrock behind the arch, upstream of the Heart Cave, but discovered it to be a bit too steep after an initial 10' climb through a broken cliff wall. Note: This campsite has an excellent view of Navajo Mountain downstream, and if it's quiet enough you can hear 7-9 echoes from this point returning from up to 7-8 sec away. Also going directly uphill to the top of the talus field against the cliffs affords a very nice sunrise view.
0207: Driving the houseboat (the Wildwind II) toward the arch to show it to my crew, I nearly caused a disaster due to the combination of powerful, swirling tailwinds ("Moriah"/"Mariah") and a pair of ski boats in tow, one on each side of the stern.
021128: Coincidentally Moriah Eberhard, age 16, ascended the crack up-and-out from a boat dropoff, first person we know of to accomplish this. (Been back and done it several times since.)
030527: Moored briefly directly below the arch at 3607'; climbed through and around it again. Interesting spot although exposed to the main channel.
030727: Moored for one night below the arch.
040519: "Lassoed" the arch with anchor line so crew could scramble up and through the back crack! (And did it again in August.)

ESCALANTE RIVER

Escalante River mouth: 37.290889,-110.873722

Crushed ruin near waterfall: Small perennial spring and waterfall (marked on map) upstream of Cow Canyon, river-right, is interesting to explore on foot from boat mooring spots nearby. Just upstream of the waterfall there's a steep, precarious way to climb up ledges, around slickrock to left, and across rubble to the high point below cliffs about halfway out of the canyon, to a flattened ruin: Two logs and a 1" thick layer of leaf and twig debris under 1.5' of rock that apparently spalled off the wall -- hopefully after the dwelling was abandoned. (Short but steep.)
(!) Cow Canyon to Escalante, or vice versa, a surprisingly big, narrow isthmus between the main channel and a bend in Cow Canyon upstream of the mouth of Cow Canyon, with trails on both sides. A bit steep but relatively short with ski boat drop-off and pickup.
Between Cow/Fence and Explorer canyons, river-right, a non-descript place to moor near a huge cleft (saddle) in the cliffs nearby (northeast of 4281' high point). Hiked uphill through this cleft, down a little, and then up a huge, steep, overgrown sand dune, ending about 500' above the lake, nearly up-and-out but blocked by the upper cliff, in a crescent "bowl" formed by an old abandoned meander. Then down east across a short rock saddle to the bouldery top of the oxbow's "island", an airy place with a nice view.
(!) Explorer Canyon: Relatively short hike, though bushwhacky and sandy, on decent trail, to pretty pool at end (best in morning before sun hits), ~1 hour; look for small Zane Grey Arch tucked high on left side (river-right, take uppermost trail) ~2/3 of the way in (0.54 mi GPS direct from full-pool). A few petroglyphs beyond (upstream) of arch.
Moki steps visible from lake (not a hike), covered by full pool, at 37.359944,-110.940833, east of Three Roof Ruin.
Willow Creek Canyon: A very slow, wet slog from 3602', a long way to the full-pool mark and beyond to the junction with Forty Mile Creek; 2 hours back down from this point. Lots of vegetation, some bushwhacking, required at points to walk through water; but pretty, one odd small waterfall, lots of neat overhangs and gardens.
Tried to continue to Broken Bow Arch, but encountered a pool at least waist deep in a narrow section 2 min beyond the fork; went 20 min up Forty Mile instead; some pretty undercuts, but again slow going.
090924: Moored in Willow at 3636' elevation; kayaked 20 minutes to end of lake just a bit east of the "north fork" junction; then hiked/waded in water shoes about one hour to the Forty Mile junction, and about 40 min beyond that, through the waist-deep pool, to the spectacular Broken Bow Arch. Actually passed the pedestal of the arch, low in the creekbed, before being sure we were there. Easy up to sit below the span, also view it from various angles on both sides.
090924+: On the way back, detoured over an hour up Forty Mile through pretty scenery all the way to wading the "lower" flooded narrows, again waist-deep and very pretty.
Fifty Mile Canyon: Up-and-out, river-left across from the "Bedroom", up peninsula east of 4001' point.
Also walked the upper part of the narrows just upstream from the Bedroom at lake level 3603', a pleasant, wet stroll to a cove on river-right near full-pool.
090922: Kayaked at lake level 3636' (gliding below some overgrowth) through marvelous short slot canyon to end of lake, and continued on foot a short distance up more slot canyon. Not sure if it narrows again further upstream.
(!) Up-and-out east from peninsula east of Fifty Mile Canyon (river-left), to Pollywog Bench and overlook "Dougs Sound Cave" (400' drop); look for hikable slickrock ~1 mi upstream of of "Dougs Finger", same side (might not be doable when lake is lower, exposing cliffs); one very steep section just before bench, then cross bench to intersect "Finger"; ~1 hour one way.
Davis Gulch: Up past LaGorce Arch (37.311361,-110.938667, actually a bit SSE of this point) to end of water at full-pool (37.301278,-110.948917) and thence to Bement Arch (37.284139,-110.965111, formerly called "Nemo (no-name) Arch"); ~1.6 mi direct from full-pool but a tough bushwhack, up and down on sand, braided trails; took 1:25 one way. I suspect that at one time a natural dam blocked the gulch and filled it 50-100' deep with sand, which now forms flat mesas cut by deep, wet ravines. Huge arch high up river-left wall of Davis, a cross between Rainbow Bridge (for size and grace) and LaGorce Arch (for style). (Davis Gulch was named for John Davis, pioneer Mormon in Escalante, Utah. It crosses the Mormon Trail = Hole in the Rock Road at 37.252528,-110.974889.)
040521, lake at 3585', hiked about 10 minutes (2 turns) to LaGorce Arch, about 1:30 total to the corral and exit just beyond full-pool, and another 1:15 along or above the canyon rim river-left to a magnificent overlook point down on the arch and up the canyon west to the Kaiparowits Plateau and Fifty Mile Point. From there, just 8 minutes around and down to stand above the span on its downstream side. Returned in under 2:30, nice barefoot walk in the cool creek and sand.
Clear Creek Canyon: At the end, Cathedral in the Desert (37.287323,-110.915818) is underwater at full-pool, never mind what some maps say. From 3638' walked up to narrow polished serpentine slots ("pollywog pools"), stemmed up them, then walked on sand, up and over a big hill, to eventually reach a very pretty dead-end amphitheater and pool above full-pool, ~0:20 one way.
2003, three visits, definitely identified the Cathedral: With the lake at 3607-3611' the water ended in a small pool just beyond the slot waterfall into the floor of the Cathedral. Snorkeled down 37' using a weighted line to reach the silty bottom. Depth was 49' in the middle of the area, indicating 12' of silt had poured over the waterfall and settled below. At 3611', can walk a ways up the canyon to a previously underwater fall that might or might not be passable depending on silt buildup.
0311, at 3601', jumped off the roof of a houseboat to the boulder to the right of the waterfall, moored the boat, and walked up again to the higher fall.
040519, at 3585', found rope up the waterfall about 20', climbed out! Depth about 25' in the center of the room.

DOWNSTREAM OF ESCALANTE RIVER

Near Escalante mouth: Shallow cave high above lake below 3922' point main channel river-left just downstream of Escalante mouth; fun slickrock to "balcony" perch. (Done thrice.) (A bit steep and exposed up to the cave.)
(!) "Eureka Canyon", a hidden finger just downstream and around the corner river-left off the main channel from the Escalante mouth. Less than 30 min of relatively easy walking from the mouth (at the full-pool point) on the river-right (north) shore, along purple Kayenta slickrock and a sandy trail below Navajo cliffs, leads to a great, gorgeous amphitheater, usually shady, especially in the morning; two pools and a huge old cottonwood tree. Surprisingly far up and around, about 10 min, to the interesting clefts high above; no sign of Anasazi ruins except possibly a thatched roof crushed under fresh spall on the left end. (Done twice.)
"Eureka Canyon" possible exit: At the mouth (high water mark), found a small gully just left (north) of the main canyon, with a possibly ancient short footpath in it. Just above this, steep scrambling required in a few spots, but you can get up the ridgeline to the right and follow the obvious route to much higher ground, including a view of the Escalante mouth, "Moriahs Arch", across into the amphitheater, and down the canyon itself. Couldn't find a "good" way up the last 100' or so to get to the rim though, just too steep for me up the main center slope or the far right. Look back as you climb so you are sure how to return. (Done twice.)
"Walking Rock Canyon", dead-end box canyon (U-shaped finger) in Navajo sandstone, ~1 mi long, downstream across from Escalante (river-left), just upstream of high pillar with rounded cap; 30 min one way up to small "Walking Rock" just south of 4415' point. (Done four times; rock discovered 9205, reported still standing by Herberg 0007, no longer standing (sigh) 0311. I found the rock itself but the legs were gone.) (Easy walk up canyon floor, then steep debris pile to steep short friction up slickrock to where the rock used to be.)
"Middle Rib Canyon" between "Walking Rock Canyon" and "Twin Edens Canyon" features a steep but doable up-and-out on the center sandstone rib, rare for this area; it was probably an Anasazi highway, possibly the only exit on river-left between mile 72 and Cottonwood Canyon (but see also "Eureka Canyon"). The exit point at the top of the rib and hill is at 37.272667,-110.847861.
Also a forming buttress arch cave on the north wall and some Anasazi flakes and metates in the cave to the left of that one. Lovely valley with big cottonwood trees up the right side of the valley. (Relatively short, easy walk up from the lake, depending on level.)
Bell Tower Window (37.265361,-110.851222), up and out from the "Middle Rib Canyon" rib described above, then across (south and southwest) to overlook "Twin Edens Canyon" and southwest along the rim to the Window itself, in a prominent rounded knob of darker rock, about 1:15 from the canyon floor. Spectacular viewpoint overlooking the canyon; can scramble to top of north pillar; stood on the span itself once, but would not recommend it. Also airy to get below the span, didn't go all the way.
071005, visited again, leisurely 2:05 one-way from 3602'. Back via meander to "Walking Rock Canyon" overlook, then only 10 minutes back to the return point down "Middle Rib".
(!) SW Rincon overlook, similar to previous but longer; about 0:50 fast from the lake at 3602' to the top of the rib and slope, then continue NE ~2.0 mi across relatively flat and fast terrain to the "Rincon" survey point, 4845', 37.288056,-110.817667, the large, dome-shaped highest point of a huge, lonesome Navajo sandstone hill with an incredible view. This is the highest point on the west side of the Rincon. Reached in 1:25 from the exit point; found one tinaja in the drainage leading to "Twin Edens Canyon". Steep scramble to the summit from the NW side, but easier off (and on) from the NE subpeaks. On top is a 1953 brass marker, two 1963 markers, and the remnant corner posts of a survey tripod pillar. (The wreckage itself was downhill east of the summit.)
From here continue down/up east to subpeaks, then down and north to a lovely hill overlooking the downstream arm of the Rincon. Thence west ~1 mi of easy walking takes you to overlook "Daves Lost Anchor Canyon", where the terrain is much rougher; and another ~1 mi SSW takes you past the head of "Walking Rock Canyon" and back to the "Middle Rib Canyon" exit/return point. The solo round-trip took me ~8.5 hours on a pleasant September day, including 1:15 on the high point.
0908: Went up Middle Rib again, to Bell Tower Window, and then all the way to the 4845' high point; 9:20 round trip on a hot day, with four others on the full loop.
(!) "Twin Edens Canyon", ~0:40 stroll from low water on river-right above Kayenta sandstone at base of Navajo, past view of Bell Tower Window, to a remarkably deep pool, nearly subterranean, with long waterfalls down slickrock from both forks, each of which ends in a lush garden and spring (although no plunge pools). The right fork's Eden includes an upside down U shaped cave above with a tree growing in it. (Done twice, second time also to top of debris pile in left fork, near what looks like but is not a ruin high above the pool below.) (Tough scramble through Kayenta cliffs to the flat trail above.)
(!) Ribbon Canyon grand tour: Mild bushwhack to the full-pool mark, with lots of small pools to dodge (in a wet year); spectacular orange cliff reflections near sunset. Lovely purple Kayenta streambed, mostly easy walking. Then up the hill (river-left, south side) to a nice, unexpected deer trail at the first (minor) fork, to avoid a huge pool and overgrowth below, east to the second (main) fork.
Up the left (north) fork to the end, about a mile, much bushwhacking, lots of pretty overhangs. Pretty back there in the shade, but no special scenery compared to other GCNRA canyons. No "exit" either, at least 50' of cliff at all points, despite some hopeful sections on the topo map.
East up the main fork, also about a mile, much easier travel although still a few spots of whacking. End is lovely, a huge purple stone amphitheater, kind of like stadium seating in the round, with an orange floor, cottonwood trees, backlit; a dripping spring in the shade. Fast hike (1:35) possible from here back to lake at 3603'.
(!) Jackass Bench, name mentioned in one guidebook but never seen on a map, main channel river-right about half a mile upstream of Hole in the Rock, a huge, obvious slickrock slope ringed by small cliffs just below full-pool. At lake level 3585', about 7 minutes walk upstream from a cove on the downstream side there was a cairn and an easy scramble through to a long, somewhat steep and relentless but awesome, nearly 1000' climb to a 4520'+ hilltop; did in 0:50. The highest point for about 5 miles around, with an incredible view -- across to Navajo Mountain, downstream to the mouth of the San Juan, west to the Kaiparowits Plateau, north to the basin of the Escalante River, and even visible were the Boulder in the Sky and the top of the Rincon.
0408: Repeated the hike, continued down to Hole in the Rock for ski boat pickup, total about 4:10 one way.
0607: Repeated the hike in the other direction, up Hole in the Rock in about 50 minutes, across to the 4520'+ hilltop, and down to the lake, in under 4 hours.
(!) Hole in the Rock (well-known), main channel river-right; can be done in 0:17 from full-pool in cool weather, but 0:45 is more typical (an hour by headlamp for sunrise); fun scramble up old Mormon route. (Done five times?) (Steep scrambling in spots, and very hot on a summer afternoon.)
(!) "Golden Arches" (really Hi-Lo Arch, not on map but says that in the register) near Cottonwood Canyon mouth; great slickrock hike to double arch! 20 min one way from full-pool, but requires ski boat drop-off in cove off main channel, river-left, upstream of Register Rocks, upstream of Cottonwood mouth, just southeast of 3922' point (not accessible at lower lake level due to circular cliff); then route-finding up and down southeast across steep slickrock gullies to arch; can get under and over both arches; nice views. (Done twice.) (T-storm 990803 caused awesome waterfall through arch, seen from lake while crew huddled behind it out of the rain.)
Cottonwood Canyon (mouth: 37.233056,-110.874750): Overlook point above cliff above Cottonwood Canyon; 30 min one way, slickrock, very steep and exposed; start past (downstream) cliff, river-right, just before canyon makes sharp left to mouth, well downstream of left finger. (Cottonwood Canyon was previously known as Cedar Creek Canyon and Cottonwood Valley.)
(!) Cottonwood Canyon: Moki steps and pretty pool, at rear of first left finger (only major branch); steps up wall, right corner, at left subfinger (airy, but easier than most); pool at right subfinger (done twice, second time went up moki steps, not much to see above there).
Near Llewellyn Gulch mouth: River-left from cove at base of Navajo cliffs ~0.4 mi upstream from mouth, easy scramble to relatively flat area perhaps 3/4 mi across, no exit found up through higher cliffs, but apparent Anasazi hunter camp (lots of various agate shards in a small area plus some old stoneworks) at base of Navajo cliffs (37.23295,-110.88460); nice overlook of Cottonwood Canyon mouth and up to Hole in the Rock; could get somewhat higher but cliffed out.
Across from Llewellyn Gulch mouth, downstream a little and across the lake: Unnamed box canyon at least 1 mi long, fairly pretty with cottonwood trees, but hidden from the lake (the mouth is on flats above full pool, maybe 10 min walk from that point). Easy hike to near the end, then a steep scramble up loose bouldery debris from a relatively recent spall. No plunge pool at the back wall, too porous, but attractive hanging garden and "tapestry".
Out from the mouth of this canyon and a little upstream is an isolated 3940' pillar with a rough white limestone top, a little bit of a scramble to reach from the east (maybe two easier ways on the west), with a great view including downstream to Navajo Mountain.
(!) Near San Juan mouth: "Sandy Beach" hike, main channel river-right at mile marker 59; sandstone friction to high overlook (the "Balcony" with no "railing", 37.20250,-110.90237) above cliff. Start from sandy back of cove, right side; hike up trail onto slickrock at right; follow way up around cliffs, below and to right of big alcove, zig-zagging on slickrock however you are comfortable, to access top terrain. It levels off into an area with about ten "pollywog pools" in a row. Continue up the gully, left of biggest dryfall. At the first reasonable place, cut back sharply left to leave the main gully. Then drift right a little, don't stick tight left, to find the cliff overlook. The Balcony is about 30x50' and overlooks a 700' drop. Very steep slickrock at points, but a tremendous view. (Done at least thrice.)
Also worth a visit: A high point with a couple of cairns and a panoramic vista just a few minutes uphill and north of the Balcony.
(!) Jacks Arch, back of finger off San Juan river-right just upstream of the mouth; short walk on trails (at right of arch) from end at full-pool; can get both below and above this arch (latter around to left side). (Done many times.)
Can also hike/climb way back above the arch to the backs of two pretty glens, one above the arch, the other (spectacularly decorated) to the left, upstream relative to the main channel. Narrow path through rocks leads up from arch, or use large debris pile more to the left all the way up from lake level. (Steep slickrock but not awful.)
0607: 20+ minute walk from water at 3609', left fork off San Juan, to the arch and then the coves above. Descended debris pile to sand dune and then west down to the main channel (closer) for ski boat pickup. At low water level, this point is a bit closer and easier to get to the arch.
Near Jacks Arch, last cove river-left downstream before San Juan, ~0.5 mi from the arch, hard to describe. Found moki steps in excellent condition (ancient or recent?) leading up through a short cliff to a large upper slickrock area below highest cliffs. Rope helpful for comfort on descent; unsure if there's any other way down from this area. Hiked downstream to a huge "balanced rock" and "arch" on the point between the main channel and the San Juan, then out (south) on faint trails to a high slickrock bump with an excellent view up both rivers. No ruins or markings seen.

SAN JUAN RIVER

San Juan River mouth: 37.179833,-110.895361

San Juan Chinle Formation, ~3 mi downstream Zahn Bay (37.208361,-110.590389), river-right, large area of whitish/gray mudstone; interesting canyon, much petrified wood, hiked ~1/2 mi into it. (Easy walking.)
Alcove Canyon, ~1.5 mi north to end, no exit; flat but bushwhack, some glens. (Mouth: 37.276528,-110.691028.)
Downstream Alcove Canyon: Unnamed finger river-right off San Juan downstream of Alcove Canyon, east of 4369' point; can hike way back on river-left, but no exit found; one tough scramble ("Alans Alley") leads to cliff; crack river-left closer to main channel gives technical exit with exposure (used rope, 9810). From water to jeep road and local high point on Wilson Mesa ~2:50 total; then ~2 mi further north to overlook "Dougs Cathedral" in Iceberg Canyon in 1:20. This is definitely the hard but entertaining way to overlook the "Cathedral"! Approx 46 mi by rivers, 2.4 (difficult) mi one way direct. See also the Iceberg Canyon Grand Tour.
Nearest water on San Juan to Iceberg: 37.265361,-110.851222.
Piute Bay, north side, up cliff from cove at south end of "cape" toward highest point; tough climb; semi-technical crack through Kayenta/Wingate. Complex highlands beyond cliffs; no easy way to very top of Navajo bumps; ~1 hour to highest point on cliff. Saw and left a 4-finger, 6-point antler near top of route; explored northwest into major gully with impassable cliffs at head in Navajo.
Piute Bay, north side, around cove to high point on small peninsula to view bay and cliffs; 0:45 round trip.
Piute Bay, north side, ~0.5 mi west of previous site, up talus to cliff base, nice view, but no exit. (Steep and loose.)
Piute Bay, Neskahi Wash; walk up from west of mouth, lots of petrified wood, around dark cone-shaped bump, and drop through cliffs into gully above full-pool; continue walk up wash past small dry fall with burro trail on river-left, then up to second larger dry fall (climbed it, but trail goes river-left again) and further to turnaround point (Neskahi Wash continues further for miles), 1.0 mi GPS direct from water at 3667'; easy walk, lots of fossil wood, some shade.
0808: "Killer hike" similar to previous, continuing up through cliffs to a point 5560' (GPS) above the lake and about 2.4 mi from the dark cone-shaped hill. Turned left at the fork above the bigger dryfall, which was a mistake, the gullies were complex and boulder-choked at the bottoms. Slogged up and down on burro trails to the base of the cliffs; past small green oasis on the hillside; up the steep talus "cone" and around, to the right, into a massive slab boulderfield; found a couple of cairns and a tricky way through to the upper flats, and then a few tens of feet more onto the rim. Took 4:30 from near the Neskahi mouth at 3631'. "Hidden" arch noticed on the far right on the way up the talus slope. Down faster, 2:40, to end of water in Neskahi near cone-shaped hill, by staying on high ground as long as possible before dropping into the wash. Best way up is reverse, stay in right fork from dryfall for 1-2 mi before cutting uphill and out left.
Piute Bay, three unnamed gullies/washes (one called "Lost Sail Cove") southwest of Neskahi Wash, south to petrified wood; Navajos disallow collecting. (Done four times).
0108: Continued up through petrified forest to flatter sandstone area, then more Chinle with huge blackened fossil logs, to more sandstone below cliffs; left to obvious talus slope, steep but burros get around on it, to just left (east) of pinnacles; narrow "sky sidewalk" here with cairn; east to high point; then south 0.5 mi GPS direct further to 5286' high point on cliff overlooking Neskahi Wash, incredible view; then down more directly around terrain to finger canyon south of pinnacles, dropping west, bushy but direct, to flats above Chinle again; 7.0 hrs round trip (leisurely), 1600' gain.
0607: From river-left side of "Lost Sail Cove", scrambled up to base of cliffs on SW side of on prominent ridge/plateau forming the west side of Piute Canyon. No non-technical route found through the best-looking gullies, but lots of burro trails below the cliffs. Continued south and up to saddle just north of obvious pinnacle on the ridgeline, with nice views down both west and east, then down to the start of the walkable ridge, and all the way south down to the water, veering left off and around the ridgeline down low as it became cliffy in Chinle mudstone. Hiking down this long ridge is a marvelous experience.
0808: Similar to 0108, but across terrain south from houseboat moored out from canyon mouth, 1:30 to shade in cliffs just below pinnacles. Once on top, continued south much farther than before, to overlook point above large dryfall between levels in ""Lost Sail Canyon" (on the east side of it). Had to go down several hundred feet to find a smaller cliff, upstream to get into the upper gully, 10 min back to the big dryfall; no way down to walk out the canyon. Back up directly northeast, through difficult overgrown cliffs, north back to rim high point, and down again similar to 0108. Was out 9:55 round trip!
Piute Canyon, up the canyon itself, about 1.5 hours one way from lake level 3577' to just above the full-pool mark and then up a ridge at about 3900', 1.6 mi GPS direct from the lake; excellent view. (Easy canyon walking.)
(!) Piute Canyon, river-right off canyon near mouth, high butte with long north ridge all the way out and down to the lake. No good way sighted up butte, but very interesting hike down the sharp ridge from lowest sandstone pinnacles, with sheer dropoffs to east side, and petrified wood here and there; < 1 hr one way from water. (Steep and loose at points.)
Piute Canyon, river-left, cove near main channel with small spring ("waterfall"), ~1/2 hr up steep, loose donkey trails or rocks to impassible Kayenta/Wingate cliffs and shady spots, with nice view.
(!) "Peekaboo Arches" ("rim arches", unnamed on map but named in register), four holes (technically three openings), ~4450', 750' drop to full-pool! ~1.5 hours one way, scrambling, slickrock, from cove in northeast end of oxbow in San Juan east of Wilson Creek, just northwest of 4286' point (about 37.19131,-110.73111, but location and mooring depends very much on water level); get to flats above Kayenta/Wingate cliffs, then northeast along and in drainage up to tree-dotted gully visible from lake; follow cairns northeast from top up and across Navajo "dunes", then a bit SW from the high point. Probably single best arch hike at Powell! Unmarked 9609; showing much trail "development" by 9807. (Done six times.)
0607: Miscellaneous notes about this arch based on GPS use at the arch (center of rear bridge) and on the water below:
Location: 37.191306,-110.731111.
Elevation: 4472' (GPS indicated well with low DOP); probably really 4450' or so, given GPS usually reads a little high in this part of the world versus USGS maps. Lake elevation 3605' indicated on GPS next day (really 3609', surprised it read low not high), and depthfinder on boat said 80' below the span (but main channel of old riverbed is more like 140' away from the cliff), so 4472 - 3605 + 80 = 947' from top of rear span to bottom of cliff below, plus or minus perhaps 50' for various errors.
Dimensions: Top hole is ellipsoidal. Rope across the long dimension, knotted and checked to be close to the edges when stretched across, and later measured, says 32.5' plus or minus 1-2' (not as big as I would have guessed). Rope from center of rear span just touching floor = 25' plus or minus 1-2'. That means the nearly spherical inner chamber is probably only 50' across, and the front hole, nearly circular, is right around 33' across too (it looks similar to the long axis of the front hole).
Horizontal minimum distance indicated while boat drove below the arch was 250', so the setback from the bottom of the cliff to the front of the outer arch might be 200', plus or minus a lot -- GPS variations at different elevations on different days.
Front span: Once again I didn't have the, uhm, desire, to cross the front arch. It's really exposed and only about 1.5' wide at the narrowest, though perhaps 3-5' thick (plenty strong).
0908: For the first time, ascended the alternate way, east of slickrock ridge below the boulder gully. Found a well-cairned trail that was a highway in spots and non-existent in others, but still just 1.5 hours one way.
Note: This is such a remote location that I don't know of any good overland route. You might be able to 4WD the Rincon road to about here: 37.24489,-110.75406, and then hike SSE ~4 miles to the arch and ~4 miles back, but don't know if there are terrain obstacles, especially at the end.
San Juan oxbow: Up gully north ~0:15 to dry fall from cove just northwest of north end of island in San Juan oxbow; pretty little canyon. (Steep scrambling, dry falls.)
Unnamed finger east of Wilson Creek, from cove river-left ~0.5 mi from mouth, with obvious purple dry fall just above full-pool, and many dead trees (muddy and tough anchoring); pass first dry fall on either side (easier on left) to second dry fall, semi-technical scramble but found 1/2" nylon rope in 0108; then friction, boulder, and bushwhack up and out the rest of the deep slot; then a short distance across and up to 4322' high point west of oxbow and overlooking it, with small arch on summit; 0:35 to top. Great view, interesting outing with lots of variety. Short side-trip on return to overlook upper end of unnamed finger.
(!) Wilson Creek "water slide" (37.190083,-110.791194), honorable mention though it's not a hike (well at least not at reasonable lake levels!); perennial stream with nice slickrock slide into the lake, best at 3690' or so; also jumping-off ledges; usually a rope here (hard climb) to use the slide.
0108: Lake at 3667', ~3' of scummy water below enormously high waterfall, no way to climb up. (Starting a hike from here requires high lake level.)
030528: At 3607' the "water slide" was a bit of a hike, ~0:20 one way, first on sand and silt, then on rock after the lake's been down long enough to flush the drainage. It's quite beautiful in its natural state.
100811: At 3637' the "water slide" was just five minutes (including wading waist-deep through a pool) around from the end of the lake, and still gorgeous.
Wilson Creek river-left near the end, small cove (37.18336,-110.78173), up-and-out to flats above, and then over three miles northwest on relatively easy terrain, following cairned burro/deer trails, all the way up to Aladdins Lamp Pass! The route follows river-left, although you can detour a little in less than a mile to look down about 200' to the "water slide" (see above). It's helpful to have a map and/or GPS to follow the proper drainages as they fork. The trails do meander a little in/out (down/up) some side drainages. Nearing the pass the creek becomes impassibly narrow, exit to the left and then head overland (bumpy uphill) to the saddle. I made it in 2:50 one way.
The pass (37.21519,-110.82346) is 4400'+, a small saddle where you can look down both Wilson Creek and Cottonwood Canyon all the way to Hole in the Rock and the Register Rocks. (Better views from a few hundred yards to the north on the Emigrant Trail gravel road.) You could continue about three miles down into Cottonwood, but good luck arranging ski boat pickup! Instead, I had time to detour south about 0.5 mi, including crossing part of what I think is the "Aladdins Lamp" rock formation (a big hill), to top out on a 4820' point (37.20823,-110.82223) with a great view; some detours needed due to dropoffs going down directly from there back to Wilson Creek. Overall I was out on foot about 9 hours.
Wilson Creek mouth area, northeast of peninsula and east of short canyon upstream of Wilson; found easy scramble up one rock-filled gully and around west and northwest to come down another gully river-left in Wilson Creek just upstream of mouth, then back via burro trails just above water, 3.0 hours round trip.
(!) Wilson Creek mouth area, river-right from downstream of peninsula, up obvious slopes ~0:35 with a bit of scrambling to overlook cliffs on northeast side of Cha Bay. Relatively easy access to a very impressive view.
0108: Second time, ~0:40 to cliff, then ~1 mi west along it up to talus slope, then up to 4722' point on Wilson Mesa and big cairn, a nice walk along the cliff.
(!) Cha Bay, south side, up old Navajo (?) trail just west (downstream) of Trail Canyon (look with binocs for trail wall segments); lowest part of trail swept away by slide; primitive trail reaches it from further downstream. Once on flats above, proceed west (downstream) up 2 more high points to 4714' point above cliff (37.163444,-110.799528). Excellent views all directions including Navajo Mountain; ~1.5 hours one way.
000623: Continued 0:10 down west to overlook Cha Canyon mouth, then south along river-right rim of Cha, remarkably easy walking, toward Navajo Mountain, past big cairns, to another constructed trail (!) down into Cha left fork ~1 mi up from petroglyphs. (Trail meets canyon floor at 37.134722,-110.812167.) Under 3 hours from high point to petroglyphs, including tricky downclimb of a gray dryfall in the Chinle mudstone. Saw ATV tracks and some trash on the plateau (sigh).
030527: Hiked it in the other direction, from Cha to Trail, in 7:00 at a slow pace (and hot weather). The Navajo trail near Trail Canyon was rapidly eroding and becoming little better than the raw hillside.
070808: Hiked up steep hill to high point below the cliff, below the 4714' point. Rough and grubby, but also a good view, and under only an hour from the river-right shoreline of Cha Canyon downstream of its mouth.
071003: Up from the Trail Canyon mouth to the Navajo trail, to the 4714' point again, in about 1:35. Then south to, and along, the road and up a hill (5058'?) 2.84 miles GPS south of that point, with nice view of Navajo and Navajo Begay (the littler peak to its east). Onward west to overlook the south end of the left (east) fork of Cha Canyon, north along the rim about 0.8 miles, drop down to the other trail and the canyon floor, out to lake for ski boat pickup, 8:35 end to end. Very scenic and pleasant on a clear, cool fall day.
Cha Bay, north side, route through Kayenta/Wingate cliffs to Wilson Mesa, 4722' high point on Navajo bump with huge (6' high) cairn visible from lake if you look for it; great views, not very long, rather steep and loose; scrambling, some exposure; sharp gray limestone caprock at cairn.
0108: Visited second time from west at Wilson Creek mouth area; see above.
(!) 050901: Cha Bay north shore grand tour: Mini-slope from mouth of Wilson Creek to the cliff overlooking Cha Bay (< 45 minutes), continue west over a mile to high point with 6' cairn; continue west down to flats and along the rim another 1.5 miles or so to the westernmost point and down via the "crux move" below.
Cha Bay, north side from west side of cape; it's possible to scramble east then north on steep talus through cliffs to the 4370' high point. (But this is a tough, loose, steep scramble with route-finding difficulty.)
030526: Did this from just east of the cape, all the way to the top crux move in 0:40 one way. There's only one way through the top of the cliff, right at the point; an airy step across a 30' deep hole to the last 8' up behind a boulder. Excellent view, of course. Also, saw a single piece of fossil wood just above full-pool here, the only piece I'd ever found on the north side of Cha Bay. (Steep, loose talus here too, but not as bad as further east.)
(!) Cha Canyon petroglyphs (37.142139,-110.813583); moderate (at least near full-pool); start from end of water, follow creekbed; petroglyphs scattered on boulders between streams and east of left fork, beyond main fork, ~30 min one way; one large, pretty Navajo (?) horse petroglyph along the stream, river-right facing downstream. (Done several times.)
070809: Went beyond the petroglyphs less than a mile up the right (west) fork to another gray Chinle mudstone waterfall, not dry, a trickle running over it. Didn't see a good way to get above it, maybe higher up the hill.
Cha Bay: Up to base of "Clock Rock" from northeast side; impressive chasm; difficult scramble on huge, loose boulders; short distance up from end at full-pool. (Done twice.) (Very steep and loose.)
"Not Cha Canyon": Up and out at rear, river-right, through cliffs, southeast to base of cliffs.
Bald Rock Canyon: Short hike/scramble through modest cliff on mild trail to top of dryfall ~200' above full-pool; thence very flat, pleasant walk up streambed mostly on purple top of Kayenta sandstone, below Navajo hills and cliffs, with some small dryfalls and sandy stretches. Went ~2 mi to 4040', 1.5 mi GPS direct, to larger dryfall and pretty pool below a pillar. Canyon just keeps on going "forever" toward Navajo Mountain (37.033333,-110.870167).
050831: From top of the dryfall, then ~200' higher west to the divide between Bald Rock and Nasja, merely 0.3 mi direct from the water, but a nice view.
(!) Bald Rock to Nasja: 0908, revisited 050831 destination (see above) and then kept going towards Nasja. Not far (down and up) to a great view far down and over to the dryfall (see below); no direct access. Detouring uphill and upstream, found a "corridor canyon" perpendicular to Nasja, well-tracked by burros, giving easy access to the floor. Thence downstream, somewhat slow with boulders and sand, to an incredible overlook at the huge dryfall. Descended directly to the lake for ski boat pickup by following the narrow "catwalk" ledge on river right to a talus slope with one short, vertical scramble through the cliff band. Total round trip < 3 hours!
Nasja waterfall: "Honorable mention", 030731: Lake at 3607', heavy rain on east side of Navajo Mountain produced a spectacular 120' tall, 200' wide flash flood waterfall over the impassable U-shaped cliff at the "end" of Nasja.
San Juan "shortcut": Across isthmus (boat drop-off/pick-up) several miles up San Juan at gooseneck between 4204' and 3922' points; much longer hike than you'd think due to cliffs on both sides. Must exit water just southwest of 4204' point and hike to water about due west of 3958' point. Unsure if it's doable at all at lower lake levels.

DOWNSTREAM OF SAN JUAN RIVER

Reflection Canyon: Mooring on river-right near the two islands a few turns up the canyon gave access to a short hike up to the base of the cliffs above, with a nice view. Continuing downstream along narrow ledges (mild exposure at the worst points) took me to a big, deep cave, also with a great view, and no evidence of past visitation, aside from the possibility of Anasazi thatched roofs crushed under rockfalls.
Music Temple Canyon (37.170889,-110.922722), Butterfly Arch; hour or less one way (at full-pool) from obvious starting point below and slightly downstream of arch; steep slickrock. Requires ski boat dropoff, and maybe full-pool too.
Music Temple Canyon, up and out river-right near end at full-pool, look for obvious slope, to overlook San Juan mouth (awesome view); dangerously steep section on descent.
Hidden Passage Canyon mouth (across from Music Temple): 37.17496,-110.92673.
Oak Bay, 4138' point northeast of "mouth" of bay, more or less across from the biggest island, just south of a somewhat hidden cove (nice at 3607' but tough anchoring). Reaching this point requires comfort on barely-doable steep slickrock; took me 1:15 up with exploring, but only 0:28 down knowing the route.
Twilight Canyon: Up and out to Eye Arch; single route, river-left, near full-pool only (OK at 3687'+), just upstream of Twilight Arch (underwater at full-pool, base ~3662'), east and slightly south of 4138' point west of canyon, north of more obvious but impossible "gap" between Twilight and main channel. Ski boat dropoff required. Route has section of steep slickrock followed by narrow slot requiring long, hard stem to ascend/descend. Short walk from there northeast to arch; under 1 hr total from water. Arch is enormous, much bigger and higher (~400') than it appears from water. Also nice views west into Twilight at several points.
(!) Oak Bay, main island in bay, from southwest side; steep slickrock and cobbles, ~0:10 to top, great views; nice place to watch sunset on Navajo Mountain.
Warning, some maps seem to have Oak Canyon and Secret Canyon reversed. I finally figured out that the narrow slot labeled Secret on some maps is formally Oak (on official USGS maps), while the canyon at the back of the bay is unnamed!
(!) Oak Bay, 4103' butte west of bay, from northeast side; short, steep slickrock and cobbles, great views.
(!) Oak Canyon (mouth: 37.123167,-110.957556): Up main fork or left finger when no risk of flash floods. Incredibly long and narrow slot canyon for ski boating (when lake is full enough). Able to (carefully) bring ski boat to moor on sand in main fork at 3691'. Later started near fork at 3638' and hiked in one hour past wading pools on mostly rounded cobbles well grouted by sand, past best slots below full-pool and a two-way fork to an open area (37.100722,-110.954472) with 3-way fork ~300' above lake level (and the canyon kept going). Numerous possible up-and-outs noted.
(!) Rainbow Bridge National Monument (short), well known. (Done many times).
030530: At 3607' it was ~1 mi and took 0:25 to reach the bridge from the courtesy dock. I highly recommend going very early in the day, not only to avoid boat wakes in Bridge Canyon and people at the bridge, but also because early morning light is very nice on the bridge. Within a couple of hours after sunrise, the shadow of the bridge is really cool too.
(!) Rainbow Bridge overlook: Just downstream from the dock at 3640' elevation, or above the dock at 3575', there's a nearly vertical arch on the river-left wall. We were able to friction up a steep sandstone rib to get to flats just below the arch, but not around the downstream side of it, nor up all the way to the opening. Furthermore, continuing up the steep, overgrown, bouldery gully to the left of the arch, to the top of a ridgeline (and beyond), yielded an incredible view of Navajo Mountain, Bridge Canyon, and Rainbow Bridge. This was a tough scramble, but it took only 20 minutes back down to the water. There was no evidence at all that anyone had ever been there.
100810: Second visit, earlier in the morning with puffy little clouds, great lighting. Pleased that almost all evidence of our previous passage had weathered way, except starting to form a footprint trail in steep/deep sand near the overlook point, oh well. (Actually both trips we went up the gully to the little arch, and only down the lower rib to the left of it, it's a little slippery near the bottom for climbing.)
190206: Third visit, could not safely quite reach the higher level for viewing by any of about 6 routes attempted. Too steep, or due to being cold and wet, too slippery on the previous friction route.
Forbidding Canyon: At 3602', a messy, log-strewn ski boat drop-off, then a pretty, but wet walk over an hour nearly to the full pool mark; stopped by time and a deep narrow pool, 0.53 miles GPS distant. Wider than Willow Creek, but similar.
Carrot Top Arch (37.08915,-111.04101), high above main channel river-left, hikeable from slickrock center finger of Little Arch Canyon, 1:00, fairly straightforward (but steep near the end). Nice large span, great view, no evidence whatsoever of prior visits in 0307 except for Stan Jones inscription, August 9, 1973, on wall left of arch, apparently when he named it for a red-headed friend (his wife?)
Balanced Rock Canyon, short hike east up slickrock and through Carmel rubble to the base of the Entrada sandstone fin between Balanced Rock and Klondike. Skirted north along the east side of the fin and down to the back of Klondike Cove at cliffs. Nice views down and across to Carrot Top Arch.
Rock Creek Canyon, first right fork (a major side-canyon), at the back, up sandy beach (at 3607') to narrow slot; then up ~300' nearly to top of Entrada sandstone; serious stemming, scrambling, and climbing over chockstones, to an open area with no good exit higher (but some evidence others had done it and slid down the rock leaving tread marks); saw a simpler slope downstream river-right from the back of the canyon.
(!) Rock Creek Canyon, first major cove on left (river-right) well into Rock Creek Bay after passing mouth of Middle and Dry forks, a bit upstream of a major cave underwater at full-pool; can get onto expansive pink Entrada slickrock slope from top of rubble pile, then hike up and across 1 mi south in about 1 hour to top of unnamed arch (37.126111,-111.177056) at top of cliff about 100' above full-pool (clearly visible from lake, like Eye Arch). Can descend to top of span itself, but recommend light rope (just a static line = hand line) with belayer above for getting back up.
Also, just around the corner south from the same cove, steep talus piles give access across cliff bands to high ledges; scramble up with mild exposure to uppermost ledge, go left a ways, then up a small crack to the top of the plateau; easy to walk back north to promontory overlooking lake.
Main channel river-right downstream of Friendship Cove, promontory west-northwest of channel marker M, ~500' up steep talus and slickrock through Entrada sandstone to high point at base of impassable cliffs; great view; 0:45 up, 0:35 down. (Very steep at points.)

Glen Canyon Dam is 36.94215,-111.48634 (actually a bit downstream, the coordinate is as close as we could boat).

HIKES I WOULD LIKE TO DO

ICESRF waterfall: If we are so fortunate as to be in the area for a major rain and can race up to the end of the canyon in time, it would be incredible to see this waterfall flowing. Difficult to get there if the water is low enough to form a separate lake behind Sallys Pocket.
Long Canyon: Go further than previous 1-hour each-way hike.
Escalante: Up and out at new places; several spotted, such as west up peninsula to 4102' point just downstream, river-right, from Willow Creek.
(!) Escalante, further up Forty Mile Canyon; maybe make the loop with Willow Creek Canyon. Best at higher lake levels unless going from the road above.
(!) Escalante, further up Davis Gulch; hike on high ground beyond Bement Arch, all the way to the Hole in the Rock Road (about 2.5 mi beyond the arch); or, bushwhack up the gulch past Bement (slow going). Reputed to be technical slots with no exit ~3 mi up from full-pool.
Bishop Creek: David Boyd reported in 0406: "(It's not marked on many maps; it's the first side canyon on the right off of Willow Creek Canyon.) I'd highly recommend this hike. Much of the walk is in a flowing stream, so footwear that can get soaked is a must. The canyon runs mostly north and south, so it's in the shade most of the time. I'd guess it's about three miles from the current lake level to the end of the hikable part (it took us 1.5 hours to get from the end back to the boat, walking at a pretty brisk pace). At a couple of points, it's necessary to bridge yourself between the rock walls over the stream for a little ways, and a little bushwhacking through cattails was needed near the top, but everyone in our houseboat party made it all the way to the end. The end of the trail is a wet grotto."
Escalante: Up from water's end; went to point 15' deep at 3697', many logs and overgrown, hard to reach end by boat? Would like to visit Stevens Arch; very long except at full-pool, and hard to reach through mud from many lower lake levels?
(!) Wilson Creek, San Juan, to Cottonwood Canyon (or vice versa), ~8 mi one way?
Oak Canyon: Go up even further than previous 1-hour hike.
Forbidding Canyon: 0007: Dave Boyd said: "One of our anchoring spots was at the very end... We were dubious about finding a spot, since it's adjacent to Rainbow Bridge, but apparently everyone else thought it would be crowded too and stayed away. I hiked a mile or so up. I was able to hike from the houseboat after wading thigh-high a few yards across the channel. There is a huge cathedral not too far up. In fact, full-pool probably extends to it. After that, it gets to be soft sand along the streambed. I went back to an open area that has a hanging valley coming in to it. It appeared possible to go for a long ways..."
071004, hiked up to the high water mark in 1+ hours from 3602'.
Chaol Canyon: Patricia Hale described it thus: "...spectacular all-day hike takes you past Navajo horses, the Dominguez-Escalante Trail, waterfalls, dinosaur tracks, petroglyphs, pictographs, and a ruin, most of it described by Kelsey."
West Canyon: Patricia Hale said, "...Kelsey describes for good reason as the premier hike of the Colorado Plateau. At the mouth of West on the Dangling Rope side is a small 'hill'. If you take the relatively short walk over this hill on the Lake side, you will come upon an intact hogan with a rock corral. The end of West, which is harder and harder to get to, is awesome especially if you get through or around 'the swim'."
Anasazi Canyon: Up canyon past broken debris, one of few possible exit points.

ROCK SPANS WORTH LISTING

The list below of 29 bridges and arches is ordered upstream-to-downstream. "Diff" is the approximate difficulty, and "OW" is the approximate one-way hiking time in minutes, at least from full-pool. Stan Jones' book says there are a total of 86 significant rock spans around Lake Powell.

See also The Stan Jones Gallery and the rest of the Natural Arch and Bridge Society website for pictures of many of these and many other spans. Note: Vreeland numbers mentioned below are explained here.

Name Diff OW Comments

"Halls Creek Bay Middle Bridge" low 40 (37.493222,-110.808333) Spans a drainage in the huge slope of the Waterpocket Fold west of Halls Creek Bay. Nice little bridge you can get far below (gully floor), just below (from upstream, and cross the top to view from both sides.

"Halls Creek Bay South Bridge" ? ? (37.468333,-110.781666) 1608: Tried to find it, but nothing found at the given coordinates! Google Earth shows a possible bridge (that we missed) a bit north and east at 37.47103,-110.77831.

"Devils Potty" low 0 (37.42665,-110.70643, about 3609', Vreeland 23a) River-right very near mile 89 marker; short easy walk from slightly upstream at 3585'. Houseboat fit underneath to look up through the opening. At 3609.1', underside of arch was "one cubit" above the water.

"Alice J Arch" low 0 (37.370028,-110.715861, actually a bit southwest of this point, top of hole about 3690') At or below full-pool; excellent to swim through; passed small sailboat through it once. Cannot get above. Named by Stan Jones for his wife, who "discovered" it as the lake was rising.

Elephant Arch low/medium 10 (37.377528,-110.732889, about 3900') Small and easy to miss; can get below and above; remarkably high above the lake when you're there.

Aleson Arch medium 60+ (about 4700') Long hike and scramble; huge; great views; can get under, but very exposed above. Really a bridge? Previously informally called Flying Eagle Arch. Formally renamed to Aleson Arch in October 1988 for river guide who carried the discoverer through the area.

"MM72 Arch" low 0 (37.327694,-110.859833, about 3624') River-left just downstream (toward 71) of mile 72 marker (not 72A/B), up a small cove. Can get above it from slightly upstream, scramble through cliff. GPS indicates arch elevation right about 3638' (based on difference from known lake level).

"Moriahs Arch" boat/low 0 (37.292417,-110.864806, about 3657', Vreeland 7-21a) Flat span at edge of cliff, underwater at full-pool. Relatively easy to boulder up and then climb out slot from below, if you're not too big!

Stevens Arch ? ? Not yet visited; saw from air. Way up Escalante just beyond full-pool, high on wall; 225' span, 160' high, second largest at Powell, seventh in US. Formerly called "Sky Arch" by Harry Aleson; renamed "Stevens Canyon Arch" in Sep 1955 issue of National Geographic.

Jacob Hamblin Arch ? ? Not yet visited. About 6.5 miles up Coyote Gulch, Escalante. Formerly called "Lobo Arch"; renamed in Sep 1955 issue of National Geographic.

Coyote Natural Bridge ? ? Not yet visited. About 6 miles up Coyote Gulch, Escalante.

Cliff Arch ? ? Not yet visited. Large jughandle/buttress type arch about 3 miles up Coyote Gulch, Escalante. Formerly called "Jughandle Arch"; renamed in Sep 1955 issue of National Geographic.

Zane Grey Arch low 30 (37.380750,-110.915972) In Explorer Canyon, Escalante; relatively small; can get under and above, but exposed to cross. Easy to miss hidden in canyon wall; really a bridge? Named by Edson Alvey, descendent of Mormon pioneer family.

Gregory Natural Bridge boat 0 (37.329750,-110.938778, underside about 3551', top of lintel about 3661') Underwater in Fifty Mile Creek (previously called Soda Gulch), Escalante. Named for geologist Herbert Gregory.
040520, lake at 3585', snorkeled down to see the edge of the roof on the downstream side and briefly got a hand on it! Read about it here, along with epilogues and pointers to pictures.
040810, lake at 3577.5', snorkeled down again, measured underside of roof (at the outer corner) at 3550.5' plus or minus a foot, but the underside of the span is a bit lower.
090922, lake at 3636', was able to climb ~20' up a crack on the upstream side of the lintel to stand atop it; amazingly narrow.

Broken Bow Arch ? ? (37.327103,-111.001793) In Willow Creek Canyon, Escalante. Gorgeous span; wet hike/wade; distance depends on lake level; ~1h40m from 3636'.

Bement Arch medium 85+ (37.284139,-110.965111) Tough bushwhack and scramble to reach via Davis Gulch floor. Huge, beautiful, hidden. Can get under but not above from below, but can get to the top from above. Formerly called "Nemo (no-name) Arch"; renamed for "discoverer" Harlon Bement in Sep 1955 issue of National Geographic.

LaGorce Arch low 0 (37.311361,-110.938694) Just above full-pool in Davis Gulch; huge, but small compared to size of wall. Can get below but not above; fun to jump from upstream side to meet a ski boat. Awesome "sound chamber". Formerly called "Moqui Window" or "Moqui Eye"; renamed for National Geographic editor in Sep 1955 issue; back side dry at 3607'.

Bell Tower Window high 110 (37.265278,-110.850556) Awesome arch high above, in the top of a pinnacle, in "Twin Edens Canyon", invisible from the lake except perhaps at full-pool.

"Golden Arches" medium 20 (37.245556,-110.868611) Also called "Hi-Lo Arch", and by Stan Jones, "Triple Arch" (apparently due to the cave at the back); short hike but some steep slickrock and somewhat hidden. Can get below and above both arches.
Also apparently known as "PT Bridge" due to photographer P.T. (Pat) Reilly, who was a river runner and photographer of at least Glen Canyon and Grand Canyon in the 1950s.

Jacks Arch low 5 Near water; pretty view. Can get below, and above too with a little slickrock friction; easy to walk across, about 50' tall.

"Peekaboo Arches" high 60+ (37.19130,-110.73110, about 4440', Vreeland 7-11, called "Rim Arches" by Stan Jones) Awesome four-hole chamber above a cliff looking out over Piute Bay. Difficult hike due to scrambling up gully. Can get below with small down-scramble, above rear arches easily, front span very exposed.

Butterfly Arch high 20 Steep slickrock climb to small arch, at least from near full-pool. Can get below, also above, but crossing is exposed.

Eye Arch high 60 (37.147917,-110.957667, about 400' above the lake) Huge; easy to miss or underestimate from lake. Hard to reach; can get above, in fact, walk across without realizing it. Doesn't really have an "under".

Twilight Arch low 0 (37.139722,-110.960278, about 3680' (approx), Vreeland 7-112) Often underwater; small triangular arch with two boulders at base, in huge wall; can get under. Passed ski boat through it on several occasions. No way to get above.

"Lehi Bridges" low 0 (37.134222,-110.920500, just above water, boat below, at 3606', Vreeland 7-20a) In Lehi Canyon just above, in sight of, mouth on Anasazi Canyon; often underwater; lovely nearby pair of bridges across a narrow slot canyon; no way to get above.

Rainbow Bridge low 5 World's largest(?) natural stone span, 290' high, 275' wide; easy walk from courtesy dock; can get above, but very exposed, and no longer allowed by Park Service. Regarding walking under the span: The Park Service allows but discourages this, because supposedly it's a native American spiritual site (but there's a lot of controversy out there about how real this is). There's no other way for people who hike or especially backpack up/down the canyon to/from the lake, or who want to visit the bronze plaques on the upstream side, since there's no trail around it. (Correction, in Feb 2019 we found a trail now runs around it!) You'll have to use your own judgement on this matter.

Carrot Top Arch medium 60 An interesting hike, relatively short, easy to get below, and possibly above too with a long round-trip. Final approach to arch (37.089139,-111.041000) either directly up the steep face below, with some exposure, or up white talus slope to the left and then traverse right on a ledge. Found August 9, 1973 inscription by Stan Jones on the wall left of the arch.

"Rock Creek Arch" boat 0 (37.136583,-111.170722, actually a bit south of this point, arch top about 3615', underside about 20' down, with 30-40' diameter pool behind, at least 80' deep) Rock Creek, river-left near mouth of first major right fork, discovered underwater 030731.

"Rock Creek Arch 2" medium 60 (37.126111,-111.177056, actually a bit south of this point, about 3800') Rock Creek, river-right near mouth of bay, up high on wall (like the Eye Arch).

Name	Diff	OW	Comments
"Halls Creek Bay Middle Bridge"	low	40	(37.493222,-110.808333) Spans a drainage in the huge slope of the Waterpocket Fold west of Halls Creek Bay. Nice little bridge you can get far below (gully floor), just below (from upstream, and cross the top to view from both sides.
"Halls Creek Bay South Bridge"	?	?	(37.468333,-110.781666) 1608: Tried to find it, but nothing found at the given coordinates! Google Earth shows a possible bridge (that we missed) a bit north and east at 37.47103,-110.77831.
"Devils Potty"	low	0	(37.42665,-110.70643, about 3609', Vreeland 23a) River-right very near mile 89 marker; short easy walk from slightly upstream at 3585'. Houseboat fit underneath to look up through the opening. At 3609.1', underside of arch was "one cubit" above the water.
"Alice J Arch"	low	0	(37.370028,-110.715861, actually a bit southwest of this point, top of hole about 3690') At or below full-pool; excellent to swim through; passed small sailboat through it once. Cannot get above. Named by Stan Jones for his wife, who "discovered" it as the lake was rising.
Elephant Arch	low/medium	10	(37.377528,-110.732889, about 3900') Small and easy to miss; can get below and above; remarkably high above the lake when you're there.
Aleson Arch	medium	60+	(about 4700') Long hike and scramble; huge; great views; can get under, but very exposed above. Really a bridge? Previously informally called Flying Eagle Arch. Formally renamed to Aleson Arch in October 1988 for river guide who carried the discoverer through the area.
"MM72 Arch"	low	0	(37.327694,-110.859833, about 3624') River-left just downstream (toward 71) of mile 72 marker (not 72A/B), up a small cove. Can get above it from slightly upstream, scramble through cliff. GPS indicates arch elevation right about 3638' (based on difference from known lake level).
"Moriahs Arch"	boat/low	0	(37.292417,-110.864806, about 3657', Vreeland 7-21a) Flat span at edge of cliff, underwater at full-pool. Relatively easy to boulder up and then climb out slot from below, if you're not too big!
Stevens Arch	?	?	Not yet visited; saw from air. Way up Escalante just beyond full-pool, high on wall; 225' span, 160' high, second largest at Powell, seventh in US. Formerly called "Sky Arch" by Harry Aleson; renamed "Stevens Canyon Arch" in Sep 1955 issue of National Geographic.
Jacob Hamblin Arch	?	?	Not yet visited. About 6.5 miles up Coyote Gulch, Escalante. Formerly called "Lobo Arch"; renamed in Sep 1955 issue of National Geographic.
Coyote Natural Bridge	?	?	Not yet visited. About 6 miles up Coyote Gulch, Escalante.
Cliff Arch	?	?	Not yet visited. Large jughandle/buttress type arch about 3 miles up Coyote Gulch, Escalante. Formerly called "Jughandle Arch"; renamed in Sep 1955 issue of National Geographic.
Zane Grey Arch	low	30	(37.380750,-110.915972) In Explorer Canyon, Escalante; relatively small; can get under and above, but exposed to cross. Easy to miss hidden in canyon wall; really a bridge? Named by Edson Alvey, descendent of Mormon pioneer family.
Gregory Natural Bridge	boat	0	(37.329750,-110.938778, underside about 3551', top of lintel about 3661') Underwater in Fifty Mile Creek (previously called Soda Gulch), Escalante. Named for geologist Herbert Gregory. 040520, lake at 3585', snorkeled down to see the edge of the roof on the downstream side and briefly got a hand on it! Read about it here, along with epilogues and pointers to pictures. 040810, lake at 3577.5', snorkeled down again, measured underside of roof (at the outer corner) at 3550.5' plus or minus a foot, but the underside of the span is a bit lower. 090922, lake at 3636', was able to climb ~20' up a crack on the upstream side of the lintel to stand atop it; amazingly narrow.
Broken Bow Arch	?	?	(37.327103,-111.001793) In Willow Creek Canyon, Escalante. Gorgeous span; wet hike/wade; distance depends on lake level; ~1h40m from 3636'.
Bement Arch	medium	85+	(37.284139,-110.965111) Tough bushwhack and scramble to reach via Davis Gulch floor. Huge, beautiful, hidden. Can get under but not above from below, but can get to the top from above. Formerly called "Nemo (no-name) Arch"; renamed for "discoverer" Harlon Bement in Sep 1955 issue of National Geographic.
LaGorce Arch	low	0	(37.311361,-110.938694) Just above full-pool in Davis Gulch; huge, but small compared to size of wall. Can get below but not above; fun to jump from upstream side to meet a ski boat. Awesome "sound chamber". Formerly called "Moqui Window" or "Moqui Eye"; renamed for National Geographic editor in Sep 1955 issue; back side dry at 3607'.
Bell Tower Window	high	110	(37.265278,-110.850556) Awesome arch high above, in the top of a pinnacle, in "Twin Edens Canyon", invisible from the lake except perhaps at full-pool.
"Golden Arches"	medium	20	(37.245556,-110.868611) Also called "Hi-Lo Arch", and by Stan Jones, "Triple Arch" (apparently due to the cave at the back); short hike but some steep slickrock and somewhat hidden. Can get below and above both arches. Also apparently known as "PT Bridge" due to photographer P.T. (Pat) Reilly, who was a river runner and photographer of at least Glen Canyon and Grand Canyon in the 1950s.
Jacks Arch	low	5	Near water; pretty view. Can get below, and above too with a little slickrock friction; easy to walk across, about 50' tall.
"Peekaboo Arches"	high	60+	(37.19130,-110.73110, about 4440', Vreeland 7-11, called "Rim Arches" by Stan Jones) Awesome four-hole chamber above a cliff looking out over Piute Bay. Difficult hike due to scrambling up gully. Can get below with small down-scramble, above rear arches easily, front span very exposed.
Butterfly Arch	high	20	Steep slickrock climb to small arch, at least from near full-pool. Can get below, also above, but crossing is exposed.
Eye Arch	high	60	(37.147917,-110.957667, about 400' above the lake) Huge; easy to miss or underestimate from lake. Hard to reach; can get above, in fact, walk across without realizing it. Doesn't really have an "under".
Twilight Arch	low	0	(37.139722,-110.960278, about 3680' (approx), Vreeland 7-112) Often underwater; small triangular arch with two boulders at base, in huge wall; can get under. Passed ski boat through it on several occasions. No way to get above.
"Lehi Bridges"	low	0	(37.134222,-110.920500, just above water, boat below, at 3606', Vreeland 7-20a) In Lehi Canyon just above, in sight of, mouth on Anasazi Canyon; often underwater; lovely nearby pair of bridges across a narrow slot canyon; no way to get above.
Rainbow Bridge	low	5	World's largest(?) natural stone span, 290' high, 275' wide; easy walk from courtesy dock; can get above, but very exposed, and no longer allowed by Park Service. Regarding walking under the span: The Park Service allows but discourages this, because supposedly it's a native American spiritual site (but there's a lot of controversy out there about how real this is). There's no other way for people who hike or especially backpack up/down the canyon to/from the lake, or who want to visit the bronze plaques on the upstream side, since there's no trail around it. (Correction, in Feb 2019 we found a trail now runs around it!) You'll have to use your own judgement on this matter.
Carrot Top Arch	medium	60	An interesting hike, relatively short, easy to get below, and possibly above too with a long round-trip. Final approach to arch (37.089139,-111.041000) either directly up the steep face below, with some exposure, or up white talus slope to the left and then traverse right on a ledge. Found August 9, 1973 inscription by Stan Jones on the wall left of the arch.
"Rock Creek Arch"	boat	0	(37.136583,-111.170722, actually a bit south of this point, arch top about 3615', underside about 20' down, with 30-40' diameter pool behind, at least 80' deep) Rock Creek, river-left near mouth of first major right fork, discovered underwater 030731.
"Rock Creek Arch 2"	medium	60	(37.126111,-111.177056, actually a bit south of this point, about 3800') Rock Creek, river-right near mouth of bay, up high on wall (like the Eye Arch).

TIDBITS ABOUT GREGORY NATURAL BRIDGE

Short story on my visit to Gregory Natural Bridge on Thursday, May 20, 2004, followed by epilogue and pointers to pictures:

I saw the Gregory Natural Bridge! Which was underwater at Lake Powell since April 28, 1969.

We tied up our houseboat in Fifty Mile Canyon (off the Escalante River) for a few hours near the bridge. I'd been hunting it for several years as the lake level dropped. It didn't help that it was not on the USGS topo map, that until recently it was not in the USGS online GNIS database, and that one of the pictures in Stan Jones' "Boat and Boot" book is of the wrong span and the other is mirror-reversed!

Using a print of Stan Jones' old slide of the bridge (obtained from the NABS website), while we motored in I was able to line up three or so key identifying features of the span (rock) above the bridge, and mark on my print the present water line at 3585'. There were a lot of changes to the details while it was under water. The pillar shown on top of the span no longer existed, the rock surface was fuzzed out by dried algae scum, etc.

The depth gauge on the houseboat read 82'-90' in the area just outside the downstream side of the bridge.

We moored a couple of hundred feet upstream on a sand bar that blocked the canyon beyond the bridge. I suspect this sandbar sat atop natural terrain that was abandoned when the bridge formed in prehistory. There was still a huge pool beyond the bar, around the corner on the upstream side of the bridge, presumably linked to the lake by the bridge's hole itself!

After studying the rockface and the photo, I put on a wetsuit and took a kayak over from the houseboat to the downstream side of the bridge. I made about five "deep dives" with a mask and snorkel. I expected the top of the bridge to be about 28' down at 3557', based on the NABS website (but it actually said 3552'!), and that's a hard depth to reach. My personal record was 37' with a weighted line for a fast descent. However, on the last four dives I saw the top corner of the roof, and on the last two dives I actually got my hand on the corner for a moment.

The rock above the opening sloped outward a lot. I had to follow it down and in, and then bump against it a few times coming back up. It was dim, dark, and cold down there! Very little light came through the span, and I couldn't get deep enough to see through it. Maybe later I'll use a weighted line to descend farther and faster. Also if I have time I'd like to drag the kayak around and explore the upstream side.

Epilogues:

040810: I did both. I measured the top edge (corner) of the underside roof of the arch to be just about 3550.5'. The lake was at 3577.5' mid-day (plus or minus a few inches). I tied a line to my kayak, held it against the corner, brought the mark to the surface, tied a knot at that point, checked it on the next dive, and later measured the length on shore as 27'0". (But see also below.)

050614: Bill Watson wrote to say:

I just wanted to let you know that I recently obtained photos from September 2, 1968 (a co-worker was there and has photos and documentation of dates!) and I'd agree on a "3551" elevation of the roof. The water level during their trip was 3548.6', and they are seen swimming under the opening, but it was clearly too small for even their small boats to make it under. We'd gauge the gap at 2 to 3'...

In the photo forwarded by Bill, you can see the corner I believe I touched and later measured, in the top center of the image to the right of the top of the windshield on the lefthand ski boat. My best guess is that my measurement was a bit long due to the angle of the measurement line, and that the corner I touched was at 3548.6 + ~4 = 3552.5', more or less. That would put it about 25'0" below the surface when I dove to it, not 27'0". If so, the pitch of the wall above the corner would be about 68 degrees (22 degrees off vertical), and the horizontal offset was about 10', which is believable.

Bill also said the top of the lintel is at about 3661', which would make the span just about 110' thick.

Other photos:

From various sources including Bill, I obtained the following photos (sorry no thumbnails), in order by date:

By Josef Muench around 1960. Bill wrote: This is the best overview shot I have found to date. The view is of the upstream side of the bridge, looking downstream. In some aerial photos that aren't as well defined, some people see the cave in the upper right side of the photo and think that is the "bridge". My best estimates at present are a river level of 3466', the top of the opening at 3551', and the top of the lintel at 3661'. This would imply the opening is 85' tall with a 110' lintel.
By Don Thompson around 1960. Bill wrote: It is the upstream side of the bridge. This shot helped me establish the riverbed elevation, as the person provides some scale. I estimate that the person is standing at an elevation of 3490' as I have "inundated" photos at 3487' that show this platform slightly above the water level. This would put the river level at 3466' or so.
By Tad Nichols in 1964. Bill wrote: ...in the last week of May or the first week of June, 1964. This is the downstream side, looking upstream, and is another good overview shot. The encroaching lake will be under the bridge by the end of June...
Lake rising. August, 1967; unknown source (I lost track), maybe Stan Jones via NABS website?
Boat under bridge. Same photo as in the narrative above.
By Stan Jones. Sometime in 1969, similar to the August 1967 photo above.
By Tad Nichols. Bill wrote: ...in May of 1976. This photo shows the downstream side of the bridge and the lintel barely submerged. Given a date of "May", I've reviewed historical data to see that lake level varied from 3664.1' to 3667.5' during the month, so I've considered this a 3666' lake level shot simply based on the statistics of the level over those 31 days. I'm thinking the deepest submersion is around 5', so this would put the lintel around 3661'.

Bill also wrote: As for submersion dates, the lake did not get to the bridge floor until late June 1964. It was nearly totally submerged by June of '66, but lake levels rose and fell numerous times, putting the bridge in various states of submersion from June '64 to the last week of April 1969, when it finally was completely submerged for the first time. It took until June 1974 to submerge the lintel, which has reappeared since then, presently for its sixth time.

...What is interesting is that access to upper Fifty Mile canyon by boat is blocked between water levels of approximately 3546' and 3601'! Above that, you can boat around the bridge in the original river channel by making over [the sand bar]...

downstream	the direction water would flow if there was no lake, or if a dry streambed had water running in it
upstream	opposite of downstream
river-left	to the left when facing downstream (in any drainage, not necessarily a main river, could be a side-canyon)
river-right	to the right when facing downstream
left finger	to the left when facing upstream
left fork	to the left when facing upstream
right finger	to the right when facing upstream
right fork	to the right when facing upstream
main channel	of the Colorado River, Escalante, or San Juan; or more generally, the more-major drainage into which any stream or canyon empties
mile marker	refers to original main channel mile numbers shown on maps or floating green or red buoys
full-pool	where the water ends when the lake is full, at 3700' elevation; often but not always a good reference point even when the lake is way down
mi	miles
GPS direct	The direct distance ("as the crow flies") between two points, as indicated by a hand-held GPS unit, as one way to indicate distance. GPS waypoints datum (latitude/longitude coordinates) for locations given here is WGS-84 unless otherwise noted. I used dd.ddd format because that's simplest to cut/paste, say, into Google Maps or a GPS unit. Conversion to "dd hh mm" format is tedious, but for starters, this website can help. Honorable mention: Lake Powell, Colorado (southeast shoreline): 40.25444,-105.65907.
980803	these are dates, expressed for brevity in the form: YYMMDD (year, month, day)
exit	Occasionally used here in the usual sense, but worth mentioning in the odder sense, "Life is like a maze where we all go around and around trying not to find an exit". There are many "exits" in Glen Canyon, so keep your wits about you in steep terrain, and make a conscious note of dangerous "exits" (as opposed to benign "up and out" routes, as I often call them).

Alans Alley		Steep crack climb leading to hidden cliff (no exit), 0.4 mi up river-left from full-pool in unnamed finger river-right off San Juan downstream of Alcove Canyon, east of 4369' point. "Honorable mention" but not worth reclimbing.
Alans Petrified Forest		Upstream arm of Rincon, river-left in arm (Rincon side), in cove near end at full-pool, in Chinle Formation (gray clay); also much wood in other Chinle across main channel from Rincon, and on Navajo land south of Piute Bay.
Bedroom		Sand and debris slopes below cliffs with flat area high above, Fifty Mile Canyon, Escalante, river-right ~1 mi upstream in Fifty Mile Canyon, just below the narrows (exposed below ~3600').
Bell Tower Window	A	Awesome arch high above, in the top of a pinnacle, in "Twin Edens Canyon", invisible from the lake except perhaps at full-pool. (37.265361,-110.851222)
Boulder in the Sky	R	Next high point north of "Camera Butte" on Waterpocket Fold, 5200'+; scrambling access up gully from south side to a huge boulder perched on an airy ridge.
Camera Butte	R	Highest small mesa, 5102', south end of Waterpocket Fold above The Slope, 1400' above lake, top accessible from north end.
Chinle Cathedral	R	Impressive canyon in Chinle formation mudstone a short walk from full-pool in left fork of Popcorn Canyon.
Clock Rock		Bizarre pinnacle at downstream end of Cha Bay, river-left, San Juan; survivor of massive landslide of narrow ridge. Major unnamed landmark. (The above name is not what we actually call it, but it's close, we don't want to offend the squeamish.)
Daves Lost Anchor Canyon		Small canyon with a major fork, river-left off the main channel ~2 miles upstream of the Escalante mouth, named for the time Dave lost a small boat anchor in the left fork (and we found no trace of it a few years later when the lake was down).
Double Echo Canyon		Small dry finger off river-right of "Not Annies Canyon" on hike up and out; shady alcove and nice echoes at rear, but nothing special as Lake Powell goes.
Dougs Cathedral		Huge amphitheater with "altar" stone and awesome echoes, end of right main fork (third right finger) of Iceberg Canyon, ~0:10 hike/bushwhack in from full-pool; 900' below surrounding plateau, and only 2.7 mi direct from nearest water in San Juan!
Dougs Sound Cave		Huge cave river-left in "Dougs Finger" near end; smaller cave (still huge) across (river-right) (37.328806,-110.903250).
Dougs Finger		Escalante, two huge caves ~0.5 mi in near end, river-left 3.5 mi up from main channel just downstream of Davis Gulch, across Escalante; first told to me by Doug Baskins; with gorgeous hanging gardens at end.
Eureka Canyon		Off main channel, a narrow canyon hidden just downstream around the corner river-left of the Escalante mouth; the next major canyon upstream of "Walking Rock Canyon".
Garys Rock		Island just below water level at 3687', where Gary Karnik lost a prop and gashed his boat 9810, southwest end of Bullfrog Bay just NE of the shallow shoal between Halls and Bullfrog Bays.
Golden Arches	R	Double arch (formally known as Hi-Lo Arch in register but not on maps) just upstream of Cottonwood Canyon mouth, river-left (same side); hard to see from main channel, short but tricky slickrock hike from upstream of Register Rocks; no mooring, ski boat dropoff.
Heart Cave		Heart-shaped double glen above (behind) "Moriahs Arch".
ICEFRF		Iceberg Canyon first right finger, a convenient shorthand name for it, based on a GPS waypoint.
ICESRF		Iceberg Canyon second right finger, a convenient shorthand name for it, based on a GPS waypoint (37.276500 -110.691028). ICESRF has two smaller side-forks, ICESRL and ICESRR.
ICESRL		Iceberg Canyon second right finger, left fork, a convenient shorthand name for it, based on a GPS waypoint.
ICESRR		Iceberg Canyon second right finger, right fork, a convenient shorthand name for it, based on a GPS waypoint.
Island Cave		Huge cave on river-right in Willow Creek Canyon (Escalante) ~0.5 mi upstream from the Bishops Creek fork, with an unusual hill of detritus inside; at full-pool the water goes all the way around the island through the back of the cave. A smaller but still impressive cave is on river-left a short distance upstream (in sight).
Lost Sail Cove		San Juan, next big canyon upstream Piute Canyon, south side (river-left), where Bob Jenk lost a sailboard sail ("I thought they floated!")
Middle Rib Canyon		Unnamed canyon between "Walking Rock Canyon" and "Twin Edens Canyon", with a center rib (slickrock slope) that gives access up and out to the terrain above.
Moriahs Arch	R	(37.292417,-110.864806) A wall arch, top level with flats behind, separated by a narrow crack, similar to the Eye Arch but smaller; below full-pool (top ~3657'), main channel river-right ~0.5 mi upstream of the mouth of the Escalante. A short walk (0:06) from a sandy beach campsite (usually taken) further downstream.
Monotithe		Long north-south slickrock-sided mesa southeast of Bullfrog Marina, west of Stanton Canyon; name based on view from due south. Side view visible from high points miles away; a major landmark. (The above name is not what we actually call it, but it's close, we don't want to offend the squeamish.)
Not Annies Canyon	R	River-right northwest of mile marker 80; downstream from Annies Canyon on the same side, but it's "not Annies". Surprise, it's hikable out of back up Waterpocket Fold, past "Double Echo Canyon".
Not Cha Canyon	R	Major unnamed cove river-left between Cha and Nasja Canyons in San Juan. Mike Berry thought it was Cha once and we hiked up and out to nearby Navajo cliffs, but it was "not Cha".
Popcorn Beach		(37.674722,-110.458778) At back (east) end of Popcorn Canyon, slightly up the right fork, from full-pool down, a small area of popcorn-like concretions in red Chinle mudstone, most containing white calcite that fluoresces brightly, some hollow.
Popcorn Canyon	A	East-west canyon off Good Hope Bay, across from Ticaboo Canyon, named for Popcorn Beach.
Sallys Cove		Nice slickrock site across from Lost Eden Canyon, main channel river-left downstream, just around the corner from Halls Marina (marina is 37.465722,-110.715583).
Sallys Pocket		Beach and boulders at rockfall ("natural dam" on some maps) a short way upstream, second right finger of Iceberg Canyon; rockfall and beach mostly under water at full-pool.
Sandy Beach		Main channel, cove river-right of mile marker 59 ~1 mi upstream of the San Juan mouth, with a long, steep slickrock hike up to overlook cliffs; starts upstream of beach. Years ago this big beach was "sandy", hence the name, but it's gotten pretty overgrown.
The Slope	A	Impressive base of Waterpocket Fold across from Iceberg Canyon, river-right, mile marker 78; mind-blowing scale and smoothness; 1500' total rise; calcite crystals abound.
Twin Edens Canyon	R	Short cliff-walled canyon near mile marker 66B, main channel river-left next upstream from Ribbon Canyon, and second downstream from "Walking Rock Canyon".
Walking Rock Canyon	R	River-left ~1 mi downstream from mile marker 68. Contained an amazing "walking rock" high on a shelf below a cliff (37.277111,-110.850278).

Neat Hikes at Lake Powell, Utah

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